Today it looked promising, the sun was shining, and we could see the local radar station. So today we drove up to said radar station where you can get a view of the islands. There is a viewing site called the Saint Kilda viewing point. Yes St Kilda was in site, 40 plus miles away. Did some bird photography. There did seem to be a race up the hill by a couple of vehicles, who were definitely birders.
We were on a sculpture tour today. First stop was at Claddach Baleshare to view a ceramic-tiled bench, called Reflections. It marks the old crossing place to Baleshare before the causeway was built. Disturbed a couple who were there, eating lunch. They soon left.
Drove on to look at nearby Trinity Temple, Carnish. R was delighted to see yellow flags coming into flower. They explained all the huge leaves we’d been seeing.
R wanted a loo break, so we stopped at Langress Lodge for a coffee and cake. Could have had their brunch for a late lunch, but we had already eaten down a picnic by the bench. R loved the wallpaper in the cloakrooms.
We then drove a short distance, parked and took a delightful walk through a pine forest. It had been set up with displays of tiny doors & scenes for children. At the end of the walk, there was a wooden carving of Hercules the Grizzly Bear. He had escaped on the island during the filming of a commercial. The bear also featured in the James Bond film Octopussy and he’d met Margaret Thatcher. The latest cuckoo was in full voice, but we actually saw him this time, accompanied by a small bird.
We drove on to Lochmaddy to see a couple more sculptures on the sea front. Saw the ferry coming towards the port.
R wanted some bubbly, stopped at a shop in Lochmaddy, no alcohol on sale. We drove back to campsite, but saw another shop a few miles from the site, and fuel station. It did have alcohol, also bought a few days of provisions. The diesel price actually was not bad, a couple of pence more than Tesco in Oban.
Back at campsite it started to cloud over and there was a little rain in the late evening when we had packed up for the night.
Today we were to visit someone, who R follows on X, on the Island of Berneray. Eilidh owns a gift shop called the Coralbox.
On route to Berneray, we stopped at Traigh-stir where we had to open a gate to get down the road. Parked in the dunes and walked down to the beach. Could have been a nice spot on a sunny day, and an excellent spot for off grid camping.
A little way on, at Scolpaig Tower, we stopped to view this monument. A strange little tower standing on a small island in an inland loch.
Next stop just before crossing into Berneray, stopped at Dun an Sticir. Here there was a Prehistoric settlement. in a small loch, with rock pathways to get to the site. Also spent some time photographing the birds here. Managed a photo of a Dunlin and an Arctic Tern.
Next stop was at the Berneray Shop and Bistro. Stopping as in urgent need of a loo, so thought about a coffee. We ended up having an early and nice lunch there. Not only was this a café, it was also a small grocery store for the island. The weather was looking up in Berneray. There was much sun and warmth, many opted to sit outside the cafe, overlooking the sea.
Next stop was the Coralbox gift shop. This is at the harbour, quite small and some parking outside. R has been stalking the owner on X for the last few years, oohing and aahing at Eilidh’s photographs of atypical Hebridean beaches. I spotted Eilidh rushing up the hill from the house below to look after the shop. R bought some cards and T towels and discussed the shells Eilidh exhibited in her shop. R admitted to stalking.
We then drove to East Coast, lovely sand beach. I walked the whole beach and photographed some Sanderlings..
Next to the south of West Coast; the road was lovely unpotholed tarmac through the crofts. Small carpark at the end and a walk through the dunes to a huge beach. White sand for a couple of kilometres or more.
A couple of stops on the way back, first to the Ferry port at Berneray, where we would be leaving to continue on up North, and the Co-Op for some food and drink. As we drove near our campsite the weather became cloudy with low lying clouds. It had been like this all day here, while up in Berneray it had been lovely. (Though not very warm.)
Our camping pitch looked towards a cemetery. It was still in use, and a group of men came to cut it grass. Under the cemetery was some long grass and reed, the home of a Corncrake. The strip of bare earth between the cemetery and the campsite is part of the crofting system. I have no idea what was planted there, but it seemed home to a number of Mallards who steadily walked up and down the area.
Today started off cloudy with a stronger wind. Decided to take down the awning down. We went for a walked around the headland, turned out to be around 6 miles. No seals or otters were spotted. The first beach was covered with small shells. Not much bird life here, it was on the windward side of the headland.
Further out on the headland, the coast became more rugged and rocky.
Then around the windward side there appeared to be more birds. Even twitchers looking out to sea.
The sun on this walk did start to come out, then suddenly the weather clamped down looking like it might rain. It did not but it became quite misty.
At the campsite, we missed the snack bar, closed at 3.00 It had some interesting things on offer, black pudding and scallops. In the van we had tea, but wanted cake or biscuits with it, so I was dispatched to the automatic vending machines housed in their own special barn where some groceries could be bought. Shortbread, potatoes, prawns, black pudding.
Today was a far better day, the sun was shining, and it was time for us to move up to North Uist passing through Benbecula. We also stopped at many of the places we should have visited yesterday but hadn’t because of the shite weather. We left the campsite at 9.15 and headed North.
First stop was a little after 10, at Cladh Hallan, the site of a Bronze Age settlement, which had been excavated and mummies found. The sand dunes were covered with rabbits and their rabbit holes. Hundreds upon hundreds of holes. We continued walking down to the beach. Beach was huge, with white sand, but was covered in seaweed from recent winter storms. For this stop we parked by a yet another cemetery and walked down a track to the settlement.
Back to the main road for our 2nd stop at the Co-op to buy some lunch, but forgot to buy R any wine. (i’m fine with beer.)
Continuing up the main road our third stop was the Kildonan Museum just before 11.00. The museum was very good. We learnt about the clearances, and life in the Hebrides. How Celtic was the main language, with more influence from Ireland than Scotland.
Next we drove down a narrow track, a dirt road to the Kildonan Beach and parked on the edge of the beach. Here we saw seals basking on the on the rocks. A lone walker appeared from the south and headed inland.
After this visit we drove on North and stopped near a Youth Hostel. Here we looked at a ruined church, and derelict houses. The church and graveyard were fenced off and there were war graves here. In the carpark there were 4 VW vans all lined up. Very smart.
After here we headed to the East Coast where there had been a small port, now barricaded off. A lovely spot. Around here there were some ponies, there was also a field with black pigs. The silence of the inlet was broken by the incessant calling of a cuckoo with the added sound of its call echoing off the far cliffs. Finally, there was the noise of a motorboat. Forgiven because it made a picturesque wake. Driving back a quick stop at an RSPB site. Laziness meant we did not walk down to the lake. A Northern Wheatear was spotted.
We then crossed the sea on yet another causeway to the island of Benbecula. A rather flat island, at least on the route we drove around the West side to get to the North Uist.
Detour to the North Uist Distillery. The lady in the distillery was very helpful, we were able to taste their two gins, neat and with tonic, and were impressed by the flavours. I also sampled their Negroni. So we ended up buying a bottle of Downpour gin (aptly named). As we walked back to the van, I said I was disappointed at not being allowed a bottle of Negroni. So, R walked back to get one. R really liked the gins. The Negroni was a little smoother than the ones I make. I expect it contained classier Martini Rosso and Campari. They were in the process of building a whisky distillery. Should start distilling this year, so must visit again in four years’ time when they will have some young whisky on sale.
A little further North there was another whisky distillery about to open. There are few whisky distilleries in the Outer Hebrides, this appears to be changing.
Before we crossed into North Uist, we stopped at a MacLennans supermarket for more food, and a bottle of pink for Rosemary. I drove to the location fast as it was due to close at 5.00. On the route we had ambulance, police and fire brigade coming towards us. Must have been an accident on Benbecula, or even on South Uist.
Around the North of Benbecula, here there seemed to be a lot of habitation, industry, hospital, police and fire brigade services.
The roads are odd in the islands. Yes, there are many single track roads with passing places, but the large main route up the island is seemingly being improved to two-way roads. These though were short sections which would descend into the usual one lane roads with passing spaces. All with a 60mph speed limit, except in built up areas where it would descend to 40mph and occasionally 30mph
At a steadier pace we finally arrived a Balranald Campsite, set up our van for the next few days, It does have two shower and loo blocks, but quite small. It did seem very busy, and all the pitches were full. We watched a superb sunset at 9.47.