Mti Mkubwa Camp Archives

Lemosho Gate (2100M) – Mti Mkubwa Camp (2650M)

Today, Friday 11th February, was the start of the trek. Up and ready by 7.00 am for breakfast of mixed grill and fruit. Afterwards I repacked, splitting my luggage into three, the trekking luggage to be carried by the porters, luggage to leave behind and my day sack. I had yet to see the sleeping bag I had ordered; I was assured it would be there in the tent at the first campsite. Others had also ordered a sleeping bag, even those who had their own bag, saves luggage space.

The group was split into two Land Cruisers, and we headed off out to the start of the epic trek at the Lemosho Gate. The highway was on an exceptionally good tarmac road. (Chinese built for mineral rights?) The traffic was terribly slow, and then there were flashing lights as government limos sped past. Apparently, the prime minister was out and about. Instead of continuing along the tarmac road we set off cutting the corner of the triangle on dirt roads. This took us through a township and alongside many cultivated fields. The townships, and shops looked remarkably like my memory of Kenya 60 years before. Cultivation was in full swing, mainly manual with jembes, and women sowing the seeds. I did see one tractor. (The land behind our hotel had been ploughed mechanically.) This work was all in preparation for the short rains which were due to start in the next week or so. We spotted Zebra on some of the grassland areas.

We eventually re-contacted the metalled road and continued at a fast pace to the Lemosho Gate. There (2100 meters) we had a picture opportunity under the sign. We collected our lunch and filled our water bottles with clean water. Our porters were having their luggage weighed by the park authorities to ensure they were not overloaded and exploited. There were eight of us clients, and thirty-four supporting us. The thirty-four included the tour leader, Jimmy, our guides, cook, toilet operatives, water fetchers, the manager, and the porters. Three porters per client.

We started our walk through the rainforest. There were Colobus monkeys, who remained very hidden, and plenty of birds. I carried my large lens, but no obliging critters posed long enough to be photographed. Part way up the walk we stopped for lunch (fried chicken) so arrived at the camp at around 2.30. The path up was very well made and not steep, it was all through the rainforest. The walk was warm, I wore shorts and a tee shirt. At the campsite, after dusk, it soon became cool, so I wore fleece and long trousers.

At the camp site the sound of thunder boomed around, and the clouds grew larger. This was to be repeated every day. From morning to midday there were no or few clouds. As the day progressed the clouds took over the sky, and thunder then became pretty well continuous. We were lucky to get extraordinarily little rain.

We had an excellent meal of pumpkin soup, spaghetti and meat. We were all seated in a large mess tent with a table and chairs, all brought up by the porters. Several Ravens provided a photo opportunity, they are scavengers on the lookout for a free meal. The night was warm in my rented four-season sleeping bag. The Colobus monkeys provided a noisy soundscape to the forest throughout the night. Some obliging monkeys showed themselves in the morning.