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French Camping 2024, Day 18 Baratier

Posted on September 8, 2024 by SteveOctober 9, 2024

8th September 2024

Today was a rain day. It started to rain during the night and continued to rain during most of the day, stopping late afternoon. Hopefully, the awning will dry out for packing away. Rosemary was not rained upon during the night, the plastic bin liner over the rear door stop light saved the night.

We had booked a table in the restaurant in a local hotel, Hotel-Restaurant Spa Les Peupliers, which has pretty good food. Well at least it did on our previous visit six years ago. We arrived at our booking time, 12.15 and already there were people already eating Sunday lunch. We had a pre-pranidial drinks, nibbles and amuse bouchées. The starter was a very nice, a mixture of tastes, a parfait egg, with chopped salmon. The main course was veal, and the afters was a chocolate mousse.

We left somewhat poorer.

Back at the campsite we read our books. I made great progress through the second the second book of the Three Body Problem, ‘The Dark Forest’

French Camping 2024, Day 17 Baratier

Posted on September 7, 2024 by SteveOctober 9, 2024

7th September 2024

Another day in paradise. A lovely sunny day, again.

Breakfast, with yesterday’s left-over bread toasted (Ie dry fried in the frying pan). Then a short 4K walk to see some saffron crocuses which we had seen 6 years ago. They were still there but competed out by other weeds. We continued the walk in a circle ending up back in the village and the bar/restaurant. Lunch was being served, but we decided just to have a beer. R had a blonde, while I drank an IPA, brewed not many miles from here. The waiter called it an epah, not I-P-A. Oh well. R laughed at my bewilderment.

A large group of motorcyclists arrived; but they were turned away. We presume the group was too large to serve.

Back at the campsite our German motorcyclists were out. We had the remains of the bread and cheese for lunch.

Spent most of the afternoon reading the second book in the Three Body Problem (on R’s kindle), interrupted by R’s comments on the parenting of two small children by, presumably, their father. The little girl ended up in tears after her bike ran away from her going down a slope, an accident waiting to happen, said R. There was silence for a couple of hours, Did she go to see a doctor?? Though, after their return, they were back at the same antics later. R thought the man was a divorcee having the children for a weekend.

We booked a meal at the local hotel for Sunday. We’d had an excellent meal there once before.

Supper was very good ratatouille with fried pork.

Decided to go our usual spot on the Med for Monday. Will try also to find a shop to buy a cheap camping chair. Sitting on the stool is painful after a few hours.

French Camping 2024, Day 16 Baratier

Posted on September 6, 2024 by SteveOctober 8, 2024

6th September 2024

Lovely sunny day, the German bikers were off early. We had a walk around the village, trying to remember the objects and restaurants we had seen previously. Everything was intact. The nearby restaurant seemed to have expanded its outside space. The sculptures and solar clocks were the same, even the same time as my photo from 6 years ago. A few new items discovered. We bought some bread and had lunch. There were some road closures in the village with the roads being dug up for services.

I then went on a planned walk, I aimed for a four hour walk, planner said 4.30., I accepted that. Was back having completed the walk in 3.10. It was up to a viewing point, and was a little over 12 km with a 800 metre rise. Some of the paths were a bit battered with fallen trees and rocks. Part way down one path there was a notice of severe damage and warning you to be careful, maybe that should have been at the top of the path.

Germans were back quite late, had they been doing Galiber?

Oh dear, one of the chairs we use outside the van, has lost a vital part. Scouring & looking everywhere, but all to know avail. Slightly batty arrangement. I note Kampa no longer sell camping chairs.

Tartiflette for supper tonight. Was not a great success.

French Camping 2024, Day 15 Col du Galiber

Posted on September 5, 2024 by SteveOctober 8, 2024

5th September 2024

It started to rain during the night. Not windy, but incessant rain. R suddenly panicked, she was being dripped on. Her pillow was soddened, and the under duvet was also wet. We could see the water dripping in from a small vent above the top of the rear window. Could not fathom out why there was a leak there. Maybe the rubber on the glass seal was gone, but that was below where the water was coming in. Maybe the seal of the rear door, but then the water would come in somewhere else.

The solution in the end was to move down the bed a little and put a plastic tub where the water was coming in. In the morning, I decided the rain was coming in through the brake light housing which sits at the top of the rear door. The red plastic cover just clips into the top of the door, plenty of room for water to leak through. When it rained on later days, I covered the rear light with some thin plastic from a biodegradable rubbish bag. This stuck down nicely on a wet surface and seemed to cure the leak. Not that you can prove a negative. When I get home, I shall re-seat the light cover and imbed it in some silicone sealant,

Still raining at 7 and 8. We were moving on today, the forecast did have it as easing. The site owner delivered our bread to our door before we were even up! He had driven to get the bread. Lovely hot baguette.

Eventually we rose, had breakfast and started to pack the van in the diminishing rain. Lots of items stored outside, (table, rubbish bin, wastewater) had to be washed off. The mud had splashed up at least a foot.

Even stuck on my beam obscurers, just in case I needed my headlights on. Not done this for many years.

We eventually left, aiming for a site in Bartier, near Embrun. Around a 4-hour drive. Decided not to do the toll roads, not much in it and no big hurry. We lucked out on this decision, seeing sights we would not have seen otherwise.

The route took us on the D1006, which follows the A43 towards Turin, these roads follow the river Arc. The D1006 was only a couple of feet above the raging torrent that the River Arc had become after the night’s rain. Lots of uprooted trees in the river, surging waves where the river came across any impediment to its flow.

We reached Saint-Matin-d’Arc and took a right had turn over the river Arc, to head up a hill which topped out at Telegraph Hill. It was a scary windy road. At the top we stopped for the view. Three Germans were exercising their Porches on the hill. (The one was making the most dreadful noise.)

We drove on, going downhill. I thought that was the end, just some downward hairpins, Nope, I was wrong. Once we reached Valloire on the D902, the road started to rise again. We were en route to Col du Galiber, a 2,400 metre pass which is often used by the Tour de France in one of their insane hill climbs. Yes, there a cycle going up it with a trailer behind, and not one of those cheating battery-operated things. Every motor bike in existence was also on the road. We stopped at a couple of viewing places, including the topmost col. This last section could be bypassed, there is a single lane tunnel to miss the almost single-track road to the top.

All the Tour de France markings were still on the road. Both sides, Did the 2024 and the 2022 go up different ways? (I must check the dates and facts.)

We continued onto Embrun, stopped at a super U for food, and then to Baratier and Camping Les 2 Bois. Checking in, a second lady came to welcome us, saying she recognised us (6 years ago). R thinks the first woman checking us in had messaged the other woman when she found our details on the computer system. What a cynic she is!!!

Site pretty empty, it closes on the 17^th. The restaurant closes on Saturday, ie in a couple of day’s time.

We parked near where we were the previous time. Near us were two groups of Germans with their motorcycles. Had they been up Col du Galiber?

Lovely evening, the rain had gone. Thankfully it had gone soon after we left Moutier, leaving us with good views from the hill tops.

R claims she saw a large, fat Marmoset on the Mountain after the Col de Galiber.

On to Embrun

Posted on September 16, 2018 by SteveFebruary 8, 2020

Driving to Embrun

We headed off today for Embrun, taking the toll road to cut the journey by an hour or so. The périphérique around Lyons was fun (well, I thought it was) with continually changing lanes and large quantities of traffic. Not so fun was the French driver on his mobile phone gesticulating in a very Gallic manner, but who suddenly decided to move into the same lane as me at the same point along the road. A very quick and hard brake saved the day. Despite blaring at him he seemed totally oblivious to the near accident and was still gabbling on his phone and gesticulating. I expect he was steering with his knee! Where are the Gendarmes? There are signs to them at turnoffs. Maybe this is why?

A short stop to buy a loaf of bread and then later to eat, during which time R got herself stung by a wasp, to add to her collection of mosquito bites.

As we approached Embrun we had a quick rethink about which campsite to visit. One with a washing machine and tumble drier was high on Rosemary’s list. So we ended up staying in Baratier a couple of K from Embrun in Camping Les Deux Bois. The Madame was not in residence so we did a quick tour of the site and discovered the washing machine and tumble drier, so they were still in service despite the season.

But Madame found us, and ladened us down with pamphlets, maps, the wifi code & her phone number lest we get lost. She was very helpful in finding a pitch with the correct sunrise and sunset positions. She was also very careful to ensure all temporary residents were not on top of each other. Delightful lady.

This night we had a meal of pork strips (cannot describe them), onions and celeriac and a bottle of Provence rosé.

Friday walking around Baratier

Friday was a bright and sunny day, Thursday had mainly been sunny, but a short shower had occurred as we had reached Embrun. We went for the short walk on the Baratier map where we saw some Roman ruins and Meadow Saffron flowers. (Typically, R insisted I photo these at great inconvenience to me. When we returned to our pitch, there they were.) This walk was mainly on the level and started from the Place du Village.

Arriving back, we had lunch in the Bar La Cantine, a three-course meal starting with salad (fish, or gizzards) and then mains of Lasagne or Moules Frits. (Also dessert which only I managed.) All were very good, you can guess who had which main. R, yet again, managed to find a cat, a pretty long haired tabby with white stockings. Wretched animal did not like moules! Can you believe it? She’s French for goodness sake. I had to leave that one on the side of my plate.

After lunch, R vegged out whereas I went for a quick walk 7K walk with a 420meter rise. I managed to just beat the suggested duration of 2 hours 30 minutes, but was pretty knackered when I got back. R had read several chapters of “The Essex Serpent”.

Neither of us fancied anything to eat for supper.

Saturday walking to Embrum

Today we decided to explore Embrun, and took the rash decision to walk there. Most of the way was on a fairly busy road. Our first stop on arrival was a gallery with an exhibition called the Bleu Nuit, sic, not Nuit Bleu. This took place in the L’Abattoir, an exhibition space for the community. The building was small and old and I assume not now used for its original purpose. There were some fabulous tables for sale, at fabulous prices. R liked the metal animal sculptures, again with fabulous prices.

We then wandered into the old part of the town, and enjoyed a beer at Jack’s Bar, before more sightseeing. At another bar we watched the market being dismantled and the street cleaner come in and clean up the mess.

By this time, we were thinking of lunch, though many of the cafés were busy serving they seemed to set a time of 13:15 to stop new customers. Alas we had missed lunch, so we continued our walk back home on another route, across a small bridge and along some quieter roads (being taken unaware by a chap resembling a Hare Krishna monk plus his dog) and accompanied by much moaning from R re her knees, the sun, etc etc. (I recalled her moaning re the lack of sun when we were in NZ. Do not understand women, or at least my example.)

Sunday French Lunch

Decided to stay on for another day and have a French Sunday lunch. Disaster – the café where we had eaten on Friday was closed on Sundays. Quick inspection of various sights in the village. I walked up to the Hotel des Peupliers and booked a table for two for lunch in my bestest French. (Phrase ready on my google translate.) Well that went well, except I seemed to make a bog-up of the time.

Arrived for lunch before others, but soon the restaurant was full both inside and outside. Our orders were taken by a delectable woman who had lived in England for a couple of years so spoke English very well.

I do like the simplicity of the menus, one decision removed is the cost, all the contingents for a course are the same price, and there is none of the 50, 90, 95 or 99 cents business to try and fool you into thinking the price is one euro less.

After we were seated, we had our aperitifs, beer for me and Perroquet (pastis, Ricard, with mint syrup) for Rosemary. We’d seen this as a new bottled Ricard offering in the supermarkets and wanted to try it. R said it smelt very much of Ricard, but tasted much sweeter. A homemade version with a less sugary syrup could be the solution. Our orders were then taken by the same delectable waitress. While we waited, we were served a good amuse bouche, which we decided was a thick vegetable soup.

I had: Fish in a package (but not called en papillote) with basil plus a salad of (much to R’s approval) double-podded broadbeans and cabbage. Confit Alpine lamb with an aubergine and cumin (oddly translated as caraway) caviar, and potatoes. Followed by a selection of local cheeses.

R had: Poached egg atop Mediterranean vegetables. Veal with quinoa salad & sage, followed by faisselle (a local cream cheese) served with a portion of very fragrant Baratier honey

The pink Provencal wine was delicious; whenever we drink it in a bar or restaurant, it is good, whenever we buy it in a supermarket, it leaves something to be desired.

Back at the campsite and vegging out for the afternoon. Ah, R has finished another book and is worried at this rate, she may have to read one of my Asimovs. I do not see a problem. We watch out for Red Squirrels.

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