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Outer Hebrides – Harris

Posted on May 19, 2024 by SteveJuly 4, 2024

19th May 2024

Packed away the van up leisurely and started our journey to the port at Berneray. We stopped at Clachan Sands Camping ground for a picnic lunch. There were a few motorhomes parked on the grass in front of the beach, plus a few tables, benches and a bin. We ate lunch here as there was no alternative. On Sundays everything appears closed. Shops, even cafes and restaurants. The only services in operation are the ferries.

Driving back to the main road, we passed the cemetery which R had coo-ed over as we went past it on our way to the beach. The whole of the ground around the graves was covered in primroses. So this time, I agreed to take a photo, but on her phone so we didn’t need to stop for long. Time & ferries wait for no man.

But, in the end, we made it to the ferry in plenty of time. It was moored at the other end of the causeway. Boarding time arrived, and the ferry came over to pick us up.

The trip to Leverburgh is very twisty, around rocks. Well-marked by buoys, at one stage I thought we were going the wrong side of a green buoy. Going out of the harbour the green on the left, red on the right. Going into the harbour, it’s the other way around. Green on the right, red on the left. At what point does the change occur on the crossing? A critical decision.

We disembarked and headed to Lickisto Black House camping. We chose the shortest route, which took us on the East coast. These were some of the narrowest roads with steep long drops on either side of the road. R was not happy. All the other vehicles departing the boat went around the west coast, where the road is wider, and there are many Harris parking spaces next to the sea. Thankfully, there were very few other vehicles on the road.

We made it to the site. It is kind of idyllic, especially for the hiking or biking camper. Small, secluded, imaginatively-named pitches next to no one, but a community shelter for cooking, reading, and getting warm. It also has secluded pre-erected tents; yurts are stretching it. It’s not ideal for vans, few spots and all together. No dirty water or chemical disposal (not that we need that) on site. We called this site, the Hobbit Campsite, partly because some of the building appeared to be buried into the ground, the windy paths, and the names of some of camping spots.

Extremely friendly cats came to inspect us and our unit. Black cat even had a good look inside. We appeared to pass muster. Faded Ginger just said hello and inspected the outside.

The guy who owns the place says there are otters, and that an eagle was seen yesterday. Of course, today there was nothing.

Birds Photographed

Shag
Razorbill
Arctic Tern
Common Eider

Track

Outer Hebrides – Barra

Posted on May 10, 2024 by SteveJune 23, 2024

10th May 2024

Today was predicted to be sunny, and it was. Started off with clouds around the hills, these eventually evaporated. In the morning, we went for a walk towards the North, visiting the cemetery and the beach across the Machair. There was a standing stone in the Machair, which we rudely thought rather small, and insignificant. On the walk we spotted birds, and for the record I have posted sample pictures of them. birds. The Northern Gannets were too far out for good photos, but I do have one with its beak almost touching the water. Seaside cemeteries are very much a feature of the islands, which have no crematorium.

We walked further North to a beach which had warnings of quicksand. This probably was caused by a river and lake on the land side of the beach

Back to the campsite (Borve Camping & Caravan Site), and R was talking with an Irish lad, who told us about the Corncrake, a noisy, highly unmelodious bird which calls for a mate all day and all night. During the day it makes a few croaks every 10 minutes. It is a master of disguise, and though you hear it, you don’t see it. We tried to find the Corncrake. We could hear it but could not see it.

The owner of the campsite, who is also the postman, gave us the option of moving the van, so we took this up and positioned the van overlooking the sea. This move came about because a group of three were arriving on today’s boat and they would prefer to be together. We now have a prime position overlooking the sea.

I mentioned the owner was the island postman, and he would turn up at the campsite in the post van or his own white van, depending on what he was doing.

We then went for a drive to the north east coast. Saw a plane take off from the beach. The beach is absolutely huge and flat. It supports three runways, used depending on the wind direction. We stalked a few birds. Drove to a jetty recommended for pictures and photographed some lobster pots. There were many sheep and lambs walking along the roads, they did have road sense and would amble to the side as you approached in the van.

We also drove to the port at Ardmhòr where we will be leaving the island, just to check out where it was. Very small with a carpark for waiting. A very small jetty for loading cars.

We tried to find a shop in Castlebay. I forgot there was a Co-op and a distillery off the main road. We didn’t find anywhere to purchase food. We will be back tomorrow to get milk and other provisions.

Back at the campsite we tried again to find the Corncrake. This time we encouraged it with a recording of its call. Out it came, coming towards us, to fend off a competitor male. Yes, we saw it, pictures taken. Not a very glamorous creature.

Sunset was not as good as it should have been.