This year we took a week family holiday to the Faroe Islands. (I mean family holiday, the daughter came on holiday with us. Some confusion, we think she thought she was going to Egypt!!). The holiday was booked through Explore Worldwide, who run small group holidays to various parts of the world. We had been with Explore last year when we visited Georgia and Armenia.
We left home at 6.00 am to catch the plane from Gatwick, with a beautiful blue sky. The flight out of Gatwick was good, with beautiful cumulus clouds popping up all around. Soon over the North Sea and into the continuous cloud.
This is a list of birds spotted on the trip, mainly by the two birders, Paul Bingham and Richard Robinson. In all 43 species were spotted. Thanks to Paul for providing the list, and thanks to Paul and Richard for all the information they provided on the walks.
| 1 | Arctic Skua | |
| 2 | Arctic Tern | |
| 3 | Black Guillemot | |
| 4 | Blackbird | |
| 5 | Black-Headed Gull | Sorvagur |
| 6 | Collared Dove | Torshavn Park |
| 7 | Common Gull | |
| 8 | Dunlin | Vatnsoyrar |
| 9 | Eider | |
| 10 | Fulmar | |
| 11 | Gannet | |
| 12 | Golden Plover | |
| 13 | Great Black-Backed Gull | |
| 14 | Great Northern Diver | Elduvik |
| 15 | Great Skua | |
| 16 | Grey Heron | Vidareidi |
| 17 | Guillemot | |
| 18 | Herring Gull | |
| 19 | Hooded Crow | |
| 20 | House Sparrow | |
| 21 | Kittiwake | |
| 22 | Lesser Black-Backed Gull | |
| 23 | Mallard | |
| 24 | Meadow Pipit | |
| 25 | Merlin | roadside between Vatnsoyrar and Midvagur |
| 26 | Oystercatcher | |
| 27 | Puffin | |
| 28 | Raven | Ambadalur and Enniburg walks |
| 29 | Red-Breasted Merganser | |
| 30 | Redshank | Sorvagur |
| 31 | Ringed Plover | Vatnsoyrar |
| 32 | Rock Dove | |
| 33 | Rock Pipit | |
| 34 | Sanderling | Vatnsoyrar |
| 35 | Shag | |
| 36 | Snipe | |
| 37 | Starling | |
| 38 | Tufted Duck | Eidi |
| 39 | Turnstone | Gjogv |
| 40 | Wheatear | |
| 41 | Whimbrel | |
| 42 | White Wagtail | Torshavn – near boatyard |
| 43 | Wren |
Saturday
Overnight in Copenhagen
We landed at Copenhagen at 11 in the morning and went straight to the hotel which was located in the middle of the red light district. The hotel room was small, and there were no ensuite facilities. Bathroom and toilets down the corridor. We walked through the city, had a beer, then went to the Guinness museum. At the Guinness museum, Steve nearly killed himself on a static bike trying to beat the world fastest mile. Steve and Selina also tried hitting the heaviest punch, Selina and Steve were the same. On the drum, Selina won with a much higher number of drum beats per minute. Was not allowed to visit the Museum of Erotica. On the way back to the hotel, had supper and listened to some jazz.
Sunday
Flight to Sørvágur and first walk
Up early for breakfast. Quite a good breakfast, plenty of choices from English through to Danish cold meats and cheese. To the airport and then a two-hour flight to the Faroe Islands. Good food (with metal cutlery) and drinks on the Air Mearsk flight.
Arrived at the island of Vágar. The airport was in the town of Sørvágur. The airport was smaller than Guernsey but had a larger runway that could take Boeing 727 jets. Only just large enough, you could see the planes using the last feet of the runway when preparing for take-off. The airport had been built during the war to aid in the protection of the Northern Convoys.
We walked to the hotel Vágar, had lunch of soup. The Hotel was fine, a modern two-storey building, a leaking roof with a conference centre. Selina was sharing with Leonie.
We set out from the hotel for our first walk at 14.00 Walked down the road and then alongside lake Sorvagsvatn to the sea end of the lake. Here the lake ended in a waterfall into the sea. The walk was 10 miles there and back and took us five hours. Selina said, is that what you oldies call a stroll.
On the walk, Selina was dive-bombed by Terns, probably because she had her grey hood over her head. We saw Oyster Catchers, Puffins, Gannets, Shags, Whimbrel.
Back at the hotel at around 7.00, and supper at 8.00, Salmon for Selina and Steve, beef for Rosemary. Poor selection of fish on the menu. Met a new member of the group who had flown in while we were on the walk. He was Ian White, who had been on the same Georgian tour as us in 2001. His first comment to Steve was How’s the Mulberry Vodka? A reference to Steve’s indiscretions on that trip. The weather had been soft all day, but when we went to bed at 11.00, it was still daylight and the rain was hammering on the windows.
Monday
Morning in Sørvágur
Breakfast at 8.00, leave the hotel on foot at 9.15 and walked down to the harbour for the boat trip to the island of Mykines. Unfortunately, it was not running, too rough offshore. Meandered back to the hotel to meet at 12.00. Saw a Gray Wagtail on the school roof by the church. The church was black and had external vertical shutters with pegs to hold the shutters up. Could not go into the church as it was locked. (By the end of the week we were able to enter only one church.) The church inside was sparse but had a large chandelier and a model boat hanging up. This again was common in most of the churches.
In one garden saw ducks, and a dead, strung-up gull tied to the wires of the duck pen. Presumably to frighten off other gulls. No real lunch, just some bars of caramel, and a beer.
Afternoon trip to Kalvali
Met up at the airport for the 1.30 bus to Kalvali where we saw a turf-roofed house where Barbara (in a story by Jorgen-Frantz Jacobsen) lived, along with a peat fire, house cow and all the tools. There were spinning implements. The house was in three parts, the main room had a dirt floor and the peat fire. To the left was the bedroom. In here, the back of the fire poked through the wall to give some heating. To the right was where the cow was kept. The turf roof lay on top of birch bark. The bark was obviously imported because there are no trees in the Faroes.
Steve walked back over the hill with one group, while Rosemary and Selina saw a baby shag. seemingly abandoned by mother, at the bus-stop but went elsewhere to catch a bus back to the hotel. Selina and Rosemary indulged in illegal Danish pastries at the airport. Supper was at 7.30. Steve had cold blubber, dried whale meat, wind-dried lamb and dried fish as a starter whereas Selina had soup and Rosemary plaice. Then pizzas all around for the main course.
Barbara – the novel
In the eighteenth-century Faeroes (the North Atlantic islands long possessed by Denmark), isolation vied with a drink to produce an insular society that nonetheless insisted upon a strict social code–circumstances Jacobsen (1900-38) used as the setting for his powerful novel, an acknowledged classic of modern Faeroese and Danish literature. Naturally fearless and erotic, the widow Barbara rapidly gains the attention and love of a new priest from Denmark. Their marriage, at first close and passionate, becomes strained as the pastor discovers his wife’s obsessive craving for his attention. After being stranded awhile on another island by the weather, he returns to find Barbara has left with a new love. The novel ends without concluding as Barbara’s new love departs for Denmark, leaving her behind and her fate unresolved. This exceptional work is written in a naturalistic style that vividly conjures the characters in their social and physical setting. Jacobsen’s descriptions of the islands and the seas around them are veritable poetry.
Tuesday
Ferry from Vágar to Streymoy
Up at 7.30 to catch the Ferry to the next island of Streymoy. The bus took the group to the Ferry where they unloaded and carted the luggage on to the boat. The ferry was soon off to Streymoy.
On the way down the hill to the ferry, we could see the workings for the tunnel which was going to connect up the two islands. The tunnel was scheduled to be completed in May 2003, but was now expected to open in November 2002!
Boat trip to the Vestmanna Bird Cliffs
After arriving on the ferry, we stored our bags and boarded the small boat for a trip to the bird cliffs. First, a quick trip across to Vágar to drop two people off who had missed the ferry across to Vágar, and then we went out to sea. The sea was quite rough and several of the passengers were sick. Selina prayed for early death. As we cruised along, the captain would sometimes take us into a gap in the cliffs. This was quite frightening, he seemed to time the waves, accelerate into the gap and then stop once inside. Here the water was much calmer and gave us an opportunity to see the cliffs close up. Rosemary was not at all worried, she just considered they would not put their boat into jeopardy.
There were many birds to be seen, but very few to photograph. There were too far away, and any pictures taken with a telephoto lens were just a blur. We turned back a bit early with many feeling (including Steve) rather ill. Once we were back in the channel between Vágar and Streymoy the water was calmer. The journey though was slow with the tide against us all the way back to port.
Saksun heritage museum Farmhouse
Dryland, and coffee, walk to the garage to buy some cheese and bread for lunch. In the coach, we met our Faeroese guide, Randy, and went on to the village of Saksun for another old farmhouse visit. This time the place was larger and had some quite beautiful furniture. Nearby there was a church which we walked around. Again closed.
Sea Stacks and Water Fall
Back on the coach for the journey to our beds. Backtrack from Saksun and then on towards Eidi. On the way, the group stopped and took a picture of the Fossá between Hvalvík and Haldarsvík – the highest waterfall in the Faroes. The river cascades some 140 metres over several rocky ledges into the sea. This mountain river is fed by several smaller streams and connects to a lake on top of the mountain.
We didn’t go into Eidi, but headed up into the hills, passed a lake, and then stopped again to take some pictures of the twin sea stacks, Risin (75m) and Kellingin (73m), remnants, it is told, of an unusual attempt to tow the Faroes to Iceland by an Icelandic giant and his troll wife. Struck by the beauty of the islands, they laid a rope around Eiðiskollur, the north end of Eysturoy, but quarrelled for so long that they were caught by the rising sun and transformed into cliffs.
Here there is also the Lauren navigational system, not now working, taken over by GPS.
Hostel at Gjógv
On to Gjógv where the party was staying in a turf-roofed hostel. There were all types of accommodation in the hostel. Rooms with four-berth bunk beds, this was where the party stayed. There were also neat little six-foot by four-foot cupboards with a sliding door where you could put your sleeping bag and sleep the night. The bathrooms were good, with under-floor heating. The heating was needed, despite being summer it was still cool at night. The place was sparse but well done.
Rosemary and Steve took a walk through the village before dinner. They managed to take some pictures of puffins across a gorge, and then later some puffins on top of the cliff. Steve continued up the cliff and got some good views of Kalsoy.
Back at the hostel, the bar closed at eight, so had to get a few beers in. The dinner was brought by car from the hotel Eiði. This was lamb, red cabbage, the ubiquitous spuds and angel delight. Apparently, we should have been staying at the hotel Eiði, but the Germans got their towels in before us.
Wednesday
Walk towards Eiði
Breakfast at 7:00, out at 8.15 and a hard slog up behind the hostel. Good flowers, loads of spotted orchids, sorrel, club moss, arctic mouse-ear chickweed, glacier buttercup, St Johns wort (miniature), Starry saxifrage (S.stellaris), common tormentil, alpine lady’s mantle, thrift, eyebright, thyme leaved speedwell, common butterwort, selfheal, thyme.
Long slog to the cliffs where we saw the witch and giant stacks, then all the way back for 13.15.
Dive bombed by arctic skuas because of the baby, which we saw huddled in the grass. Saw another baby, later, a grey ball of down running around. Snipe were also flying around making their Sonar type sound
Hostel for the night
Coach to Eiði, and to the hotel for soup by the guy who was doing the evening meals. Drank some Classic Gull, slightly darker beer. Did a little sightseeing, and then back to the hostel. The road down to Eiði was twisting. A small town with a church, bank and some shops.
After Eiði went back to the hostel, the whole family went to see the puffins and took some much better pictures of them. Their landing technique onto the cliff was somewhat bizarre. They seemed somewhat unconcerned by humans, we were within feet of them. Many of the birds would leave the cliff, do a circuit around the bay and then come into land.
Supper was at 8.00 but arrived much later, cod with onion topping, potatoes, carrots, broccoli, cauliflower and a very nice mayonnaise sauce which the hotel owner said had gherkins, peppers, capers and onion. A little like sandwich spread. Stewed apricots and cream for afters.
Thursday
Morning walk from Funningsfjørður to Oyndarfjørður
Early morning start with breakfast at 7.00, left just after 8.00 and drove to the village of Funningsfjørður where the walk was due to start. Rosemary stayed behind with the bus to meet us for lunch at Oyndarfjørður. The walk started hard with a steep climb up from the sea. Then it was a gentle walk down into the village of Oyndarfjørður.
Selina could do with a better set of footgear. Her feet were terribly wet on the walk. Steve struggled very hard and just about managed to keep up with Randy and Ian.
On the walk, there were flocks of geese out grazing. These were domestic geese which roamed free. Steve pointed out a dead sheep to Selina, not very pleased. The walk was rather hurried as we were meant to be in for lunch by 11.30. Not everyone was having lunch, but we did, and very good it was. Plaice fillets, pork meatballs, homemade burgers, bowls of shrimp, red cabbage.
There had been some rain, and the next walk along a cliff top was cancelled because it was dangerous. Instead we went to visit a wool factory.
Afternoon Church
First stop was the wool spinning and knitting factory of Toting at Syðrugøta. Here Rosemary bought five skeins of wool in natural Faroe sheep colours. Leonie bought a sweater like Randys and the boat captain, brown, roll neck with gold buttons on one side up to the top of the neck. There was a discussion as to which side the buttons should be for men and women.
Next on to an amazing church built in the 1990s because the village though their church was too small. Opened by the Danish Queen, fabulous blonde wood and amazing modern blue stained glass for the Alter pieces and side panels.
As we about to leave the coach broke down. We had an urgent meeting with the ferry and bus on the other side of the ferry. At first, there was an attempt to hijack another tourist bus. In the end, a lorry, contacted on the route by the coach company got us going with a tow start. Short drive through a tunnel to the village of Leirvík, which is the port of the ferry to Klaksvik on Borðoy. The view from Leirvík of Kalsoy and the other islands in the north is spectacular.
Hotel Norð at Viðareiði on Viðoy
At the port of Klaksvik, we caught the local bus to Viðareiði where we were staying the night. One excitement on the way was the single-track tunnel with passing places. Partway through one tunnel, an on-coming rubbish cart had to stop and reverse back into a passing place to let us pass. It was quite scary looking out of the front of the coach seeing the oncoming traffic.
Rosemary and Steve walked down to the local village church in Viðareiði. This village has sea on both ends. On the walk, we saw a heron in some of the duck pens. Consternation, Paul and Richard had not seen it and wanted to go out and look for it. Near the church were a pile of sheep horns.
Supper in the hotel was either a set meal or from the menu. Both Ian and Steve eat roast Puffin with a rich gravy. Randy had mentioned that the best way of serving Puffin was to have stuffed Puffin which would be served with the bird standing upright complete with head & beak. The Puffin had a strong game flavour a bit like grouse. The next table to ours was a large party, they must have eaten a whole colony of puffins.
Friday
Walk up Enniberg
Up at 9.00. No guide was available for the walk up Enniberg. The guides were all out catching birds! We split into several groups doing different things. Steve joined a group who would attempt to get to the start of the Enniberg cliffs. It meant walking up the hill behind us to a notch at the top of the hill. We probably did not go the correct way up, because the walk turned into rather a scramble. On the way back we chose a different route which was a lot easier. Paul was concerned the cloud would come down and so he took precautions marking the way as we went on up the hill. At the notch, there was a sheer drop down to the very clear sea. Waited a minute before taking a photo, and the cloud filled in the gap. Never did manage to get the good photo. Funnily enough, down the gap, on the ledge were two sheep. No idea how they could get there to graze.
Rosemary, Selina, Leonie, Gro, Jo and Johanna went for a walk on the East of the island, walked up cliffs, then along a ridge and then back down into the village. They saw Steve’s group on the other side of the valley eating their lunch. The middle portion of the walk was rather boggy which all groups had to wade through at some stage.
Back to the hotel and some beers, left on the bus for the ferry, and then another bus to Tórshavn. On the way stopped for a view of the tiny island of Koltur. The small island is dominated by the soaring mountain of Kolturshamar that rises steeply to over 477 metres. There is only one farmhouse in Koltur and no regular connection to the island. We were able to see the farmer on his tractor through Richard’s (bird-watching) telescope.
In Tórshavn, we stayed at a business school. We took a local bus into town to a BBQ place where we found most of the others, who walked there faster than we rode on the bus. The place was an eat-as-much-as-you-like, choose your meat, pass it through the hatch and it is cooked for you. When it is ready, you are called to collect it. Not bad value. Afterwards, some went to the folk club, while we went on back home.
Saturday
Morning in Tórshavn
Breakfast downstairs and then walked into town. Rosemary bought some more wool skeins for our neighbour Vicki as a present for looking after the cats. Selina bought a puffin’s foot. Met the others at 11.30 for a tour of the City with Randi.
We saw the harbour, the outside of the local cathedral and some parts of the old town. Saw the parliament, a small building. The Danish ambassador’s house and the town hall which had a slate roof. Some of the slates (fishscale shape) had been removed from a church because the roof had not been made strong enough.
It was cold today, and Leonie bought another jumper, again like Randi’s one.
Afternoon in Kirkjubøur
After a lunch of pizza pastries and Danish, we met up with Gro for a bus ride to the old church site of Kirkjubøur. Selina and Rosemary intended catching the bus back but learnt it didn’t leave until 17.30. This was the usual style of church on a shore. As it was being cleaned, we were able to see inside. The gates of the churchyard had a blue stained pattern, very striking. Later people claimed the one man they saw driving a transit van was the artist who designed the glass, Leonie had a book about him which said he lived in this village. Nearby there was a middle-age ruin and a farmhouse museum which we did not go into.
Five lovely collie dogs, all wanting to play, entertained us by chasing sticks which were thrown for them. Found ourselves walking back to town. Not too bad after the initial climb. Large cairns all the way, and quite a few people out walking. One Cairn like a seat was a lectern where Vikings would address large audiences in a natural amphitheatre.
One party walking up with a man on a horse led by a young girl were out to celebrate his stag night. They had a rucksack full of beers.
In the evening we took the bus into town for our last meal together. First a beer at the Black Sheep brewery bar, where Steve bought a T-shirt. Then on to the restaurant for the meal. Service was rather slow, and we were almost going to leave when the food arrived. Salmon with honey and noodles. Then apple tart and cream, free coffee because of the slow service. But they managed to charge us twice on the Access bill some while later.
After this meal, we went on to the folk club and had a drink. We left Selina there and caught the bus back. Selina came back with the others at 01:30
Sunday
Leaving on a Jet Plane
Out by 7.00, for the bus and ferry and bus to the airport. Steve went for a quick walk with the others. We spotted the new arrivals as they landed. Not sure if Gro liked us talking to them. Back to Copenhagen on Air Maersk, and then another flight onto Gatwick. Holiday all over.
