Up for a breakfast of Jams, Yogurts and huge brioche-like buns, plus the usual boiled eggs. The storms have adjusted the roads, men were collecting tarmac debris, and the coach driver had to avoid the large holes in the road where the manhole covers had disappeared.
Vani
We drove to Vani, on the way there it seemed surprisingly prosperous, large well maintained houses in their own grounds. Even the road was better than normal. The fields were well tended with sweetcorn, underplanted with melon.
At Vani, there was a museum and Archaeological Excavations. The museum had its own generator, and we had to wait while the man who could start it could be found. Eventually, we heard it start, and we made a tour of the museum. We were followed around by some guards who turned lights on for us, then turned them off when we had finished in a section. The museum contained mostly weapons and tools. Adjoining the gallery was the treasury, locked and guarded. In here there gold artefacts from the excavations on the nearby site.
Before we actually visited the museum we made a quick tour of the excavations. Much of the site has not been excavated, and there was not much to be seen.
The town was a bit of a ghost town, but seemingly had a whole row of taxis to serve it. Pomegranate trees abounded. Kids were playing soccer on one pitch, shirts versus non-shirts.
After this visit, we returned back to Kutaisi and then on the Motsameta for lunch.
Motsameta
Motsameta is a small monastery on cliffs overlooking a river. It is also on a railway where there had been an accident a while ago. When we arrived there was a reunion feast for the survivors of the rail wreck. This monastery commemorates the brothers David and Constantine Mkheidze killed by the Arabs in the 720s for refusing to convert to Islam and where thrown into the gorge here. They are now saints, and their bones are stored in a weird coffin in the church. If you crawl under the coffin three times, without touching it, and kissing the coffin lid each time, your wish will come true.
The monastery was founded in the 8th century, the present church and bell tower were built by Bagrat III in the 11th century. The frescos were destroyed by the Bolsheviks.
When we arrived we had our lunch sitting on the rocks. The intention was to have it on a table in the settle by the rail track, but unfortunately, there was a large party happening. This large party were the survivors of the rail wreck which had happened sometime before, I say survivors because no one had been killed in the accident. There were goats and sheep to be BBQed.
Prior to being BBQed, the sheep and goats were taken to the church. They were then led around the church three times before disappearing to the bell tower. There was much bleating and then silence.
Nino was asked to interpret for the 86 year old monk who lived there and whose grandchildren were visiting. He wanted to meet the foreigners, and especially the Australian Ian White. He put his long age down to herbs, his grandmother had appeared to him in an apparition when he was ill with kidney troubles after 12 years in the Soviet labour camps. She told him how to mix the herbs to cure himself. He cured himself with these herbs and has gone on using herbs as medicine for himself and others since. He wore long white line robes and two beautiful carved crosses. He gave an impressive speech about how Nino’s generation must make Georgia great again. He also appeared to have travelled to many parts of the world.
Gelati
After Motsameta we went to Gelati. Very close and a large monastery complex, set in wooded hills North of Kutaisi. The main church is the Cathedral of the Virgin, built by King David the Builder in 1106 – 1125. The inside of the Cathedral was very light, and was full of frescos. There was a wedding happening, and the bride and groom walked around three times where the priest stood, while others held books over their heads. The congregation came and went while the service was going on.
We then had a christening, lovely singing from three girls, who chatted amongst themselves when they were not singing. The baby was anointed with oil, foot dunked in water and then three crosses on chains dunked in water and put around baby’s neck. The adults held long candles. The priest took a lock of the baby’s hair, wrapped them with the candles in a towel and gave it to the parents. Now they all walked around the priest anti-clockwise three times.
Sheep were also being led around the Cathedral, anti-clockwise three times. Some were being carried around a lot faster. There was a wedding in the Cathedral, so these must be destined for the wedding feast.
After the visit, we bought some gifts in the shops outside the Cathedral. Twenty Stalin Cigarettes for 50 Tetri. Rosemary bought a cross and bracelet for Selina.
Number 67 Kutaisi
After Gelati, we went back to Kutaisi, looked around the shops for a while, and had some beer in a local cafe where we met up with Meg and Ken, Joan and Ray and Tim. Back at the guest, we had supper and wine to drink. After supper, we went to bed and listened to the usual dog chorus.
