Steve & Rosemary Blasdale

Outer Hebrides – North Uist – Berneray

Posted on May 17, 2024 by SteveJuly 3, 2024

17th May 2024

Today we were to visit someone, who R follows on X, on the Island of Berneray. Eilidh owns a gift shop called the Coralbox.

On route to Berneray, we stopped at Traigh-stir where we had to open a gate to get down the road. Parked in the dunes and walked down to the beach. Could have been a nice spot on a sunny day, and an excellent spot for off grid camping.

A little way on, at Scolpaig Tower, we stopped to view this monument. A strange little tower standing on a small island in an inland loch.

Next stop just before crossing into Berneray, stopped at Dun an Sticir. Here there was a Prehistoric settlement. in a small loch, with rock pathways to get to the site. Also spent some time photographing the birds here. Managed a photo of a Dunlin and an Arctic Tern.

Next stop was at the Berneray Shop and Bistro. Stopping as in urgent need of a loo, so thought about a coffee. We ended up having an early and nice lunch there. Not only was this a café, it was also a small grocery store for the island. The weather was looking up in Berneray. There was much sun and warmth, many opted to sit outside the cafe, overlooking the sea.

Next stop was the Coralbox gift shop. This is at the harbour, quite small and some parking outside. R has been stalking the owner on X for the last few years, oohing and aahing at Eilidh’s photographs of atypical Hebridean beaches. I spotted Eilidh rushing up the hill from the house below to look after the shop. R bought some cards and T towels and discussed the shells Eilidh exhibited in her shop. R admitted to stalking.

We then drove to East Coast, lovely sand beach. I walked the whole beach and photographed some Sanderlings..

Next to the south of West Coast; the road was lovely unpotholed tarmac through the crofts. Small carpark at the end and a walk through the dunes to a huge beach. White sand for a couple of kilometres or more.

A couple of stops on the way back, first to the Ferry port at Berneray, where we would be leaving to continue on up North, and the Co-Op for some food and drink. As we drove near our campsite the weather became cloudy with low lying clouds. It had been like this all day here, while up in Berneray it had been lovely. (Though not very warm.)

Birds Photographed

Dunlin
Arctic Tern
Sanderling

Gallery

Track

Outer Hebrides – North Uist – Balranald Nature Reserve

Posted on May 16, 2024 by SteveJuly 3, 2024

16th May 2024

Our camping pitch looked towards a cemetery. It was still in use, and a group of men came to cut it grass. Under the cemetery was some long grass and reed, the home of a Corncrake. The strip of bare earth between the cemetery and the campsite is part of the crofting system. I have no idea what was planted there, but it seemed home to a number of Mallards who steadily walked up and down the area.

Today started off cloudy with a stronger wind. Decided to take down the awning down. We went for a walked around the headland, turned out to be around 6 miles. No seals or otters were spotted. The first beach was covered with small shells. Not much bird life here, it was on the windward side of the headland.

Further out on the headland, the coast became more rugged and rocky.

Then around the windward side there appeared to be more birds. Even twitchers looking out to sea.

The sun on this walk did start to come out, then suddenly the weather clamped down looking like it might rain. It did not but it became quite misty.

At the campsite, we missed the snack bar, closed at 3.00 It had some interesting things on offer, black pudding and scallops. In the van we had tea, but wanted cake or biscuits with it, so I was dispatched to the automatic vending machines housed in their own special barn where some groceries could be bought. Shortbread, potatoes, prawns, black pudding.

Gallery

Track

Outer Hebrides – North Uist

Posted on May 15, 2024 by SteveJuly 2, 2024

15th May 2024

Today was a far better day, the sun was shining, and it was time for us to move up to North Uist passing through Benbecula. We also stopped at many of the places we should have visited yesterday but hadn’t because of the shite weather. We left the campsite at 9.15 and headed North.

First stop was a little after 10, at Cladh Hallan, the site of a Bronze Age settlement, which had been excavated and mummies found. The sand dunes were covered with rabbits and their rabbit holes. Hundreds upon hundreds of holes. We continued walking down to the beach. Beach was huge, with white sand, but was covered in seaweed from recent winter storms. For this stop we parked by a yet another cemetery and walked down a track to the settlement.

Back to the main road for our 2nd stop at the Co-op to buy some lunch, but forgot to buy R any wine. (i’m fine with beer.)

Continuing up the main road our third stop was the Kildonan Museum just before 11.00. The museum was very good. We learnt about the clearances, and life in the Hebrides. How Celtic was the main language, with more influence from Ireland than Scotland.

Next we drove down a narrow track, a dirt road to the Kildonan Beach and parked on the edge of the beach. Here we saw seals basking on the on the rocks. A lone walker appeared from the south and headed inland.

After this visit we drove on North and stopped near a Youth Hostel. Here we looked at a ruined church, and derelict houses. The church and graveyard were fenced off and there were war graves here. In the carpark there were 4 VW vans all lined up. Very smart.

After here we headed to the East Coast where there had been a small port, now barricaded off. A lovely spot. Around here there were some ponies, there was also a field with black pigs. The silence of the inlet was broken by the incessant calling of a cuckoo with the added sound of its call echoing off the far cliffs. Finally, there was the noise of a motorboat. Forgiven because it made a picturesque wake. Driving back a quick stop at an RSPB site. Laziness meant we did not walk down to the lake. A Northern Wheatear was spotted.

We then crossed the sea on yet another causeway to the island of Benbecula. A rather flat island, at least on the route we drove around the West side to get to the North Uist.

Detour to the North Uist Distillery. The lady in the distillery was very helpful, we were able to taste their two gins, neat and with tonic, and were impressed by the flavours. I also sampled their Negroni. So we ended up buying a bottle of Downpour gin (aptly named). As we walked back to the van, I said I was disappointed at not being allowed a bottle of Negroni. So, R walked back to get one. R really liked the gins. The Negroni was a little smoother than the ones I make. I expect it contained classier Martini Rosso and Campari. They were in the process of building a whisky distillery. Should start distilling this year, so must visit again in four years’ time when they will have some young whisky on sale.

A little further North there was another whisky distillery about to open. There are few whisky distilleries in the Outer Hebrides, this appears to be changing.

Before we crossed into North Uist, we stopped at a MacLennans supermarket for more food, and a bottle of pink for Rosemary. I drove to the location fast as it was due to close at 5.00. On the route we had ambulance, police and fire brigade coming towards us. Must have been an accident on Benbecula, or even on South Uist.

Around the North of Benbecula, here there seemed to be a lot of habitation, industry, hospital, police and fire brigade services.

The roads are odd in the islands. Yes, there are many single track roads with passing places, but the large main route up the island is seemingly being improved to two-way roads. These though were short sections which would descend into the usual one lane roads with passing spaces. All with a 60mph speed limit, except in built up areas where it would descend to 40mph and occasionally 30mph

At a steadier pace we finally arrived a Balranald Campsite, set up our van for the next few days, It does have two shower and loo blocks, but quite small. It did seem very busy, and all the pitches were full. We watched a superb sunset at 9.47.

Birds Photographed

Northern Wheatear

Gallery

Track

Outer Hebrides – South Uist

Posted on May 14, 2024 by SteveJuly 2, 2024

14th May 2024

Today was a rainy day. Sat around in the van most of the day reading books.

We walked to the nearby gift shop, along the beach. Some slippery stones, and boggy patches. We did not enter the shop / shack. Felt if we did go in it would be mandatory to buy something.

We did walk up the road to the Polochar stone. Popped into the Polochar Inn, a hotel, expecting to participate in their advertised Brunch. Most of the beers were off. I had a bottle of beer, rather than risking what was on tap. There was no Brunch because of staff shortages. The woman serving us was away most of the time doing something else. The ‘Public Bar’ was rather 60s and drab. The ‘Lounge Bar’ was set as a dining room. Not a very good experince,

Squelched back to the campsite.

Outer Hebrides – Eriskay

Posted on May 13, 2024 by SteveJune 24, 2024

13th May 2024

With the calmer seas this morning, the Great Northern Diver has reappeared. Manged a few pictures of it from our campsite pitch. When underwater the bird swims at a phenomenal rate. It is anyone’s guess as to where it will surface.

We packed up the van and left for the Calmac Ferry terminal at Ardmhor, to catch boat to Eriskay. It is a small ferry, no coffee, tea or shelter onboard, but nice cakes and coffee at the ferry terminal. When you arrive, you get directed to a line and wait to be boarded. The ferry arrives, and boarding is very fast. Despite the ferry being open, it does have WIFI. We soon set sail for the direct trip to the port on Eriskay

R reckoned she saw a seal out to sea. I can’t confirm from my mobile phone picture, even with the great picture quality of a Google Pixel 7 Pro.

On arrival at Eriskay, we drove a few hundred meters up the road and parked up beside the beach. We walked along the beach, looking for shells, but big disappointment they were all broken up. But the beach starred in one of the Peter May Blackhouse trilogy books that R was reading.

There is a memorial on the coast, celebrating 250 years since the landing of Bonnie Prince Charlie. This bay is called Prince Charles Bay, he landed here escaping from the Sassenachs.

A farmer was moving some sheep around near the memorial and asked some walkers to keep their dogs on a lead. Soon the sheep were bounding around the steep grass slope being herded by the farmer’s sheep dogs.

We continued our walk to the end of the beach and around the headland. I bade goodbye to R, who continued the walk to the pub. I raced back to the van and drove round to the pub in the hope of getting there first. Didn’t, unfortunately. The pub was called Am Politician, after the boat which ran aground with cases of whisky made famous by the film Whisky Galore. We stayed for lunch. Later, R read that there should have been a couple of bottles from the shipwreck on display, but, if there were, we missed them.

After lunch we crossed the causeway to the island of South Uist and drove the short distance to Kilbride Campsite. It is a well laid out, with a cafe on site. as well as laundry machines, which R made use of. The rain has started as we sit in the dry under the canopy drinking our G&Ts.

Birds Photographed:

Great Northern Diver

Track

Outer Hebrides – Under Dun Bharpa

Posted on May 12, 2024 by SteveJune 24, 2024

12th May 2024

Today the sea was rougher than previous days. Our Great Northern Diver as nowhere to be seen. Rain was forecast for late afternoon, so we set off for a morning and early afternoon walk into the interior, where we were surrounded by peaks, some of which were over 300 meters high. The Irish lad, staying at the campsite said he had seen Eagle flying there. This was supposed to be an area for Eagles. We walked into the hills but saw no Eagles. Instead, I photographed a bird at the other end of the size scale, a Eurasian Wren (Hebridean), building a nest in the bank.

Lapwings appeared to follow us around squawking.

After enough walking we turned around and headed back to home, to watch the waves crash into the rocks out to sea. Not much wind, but plenty of surf.

Birds Photographed

Stonechat
Lapwing
Northern Wheatear,
Eurasian Wren (Hebridean)
Twite

Outer Hebrides – Vatersay

Posted on May 11, 2024 by SteveJune 23, 2024

11th May 2024

Well, we missed the Aurora Borealis last night. We woke up se to masses of tweets and facebook postings of pictures of the Aurora from around the world, including some from our kind neighbours at home. This evening, we stayed up late, and set the alarm for midnight, but saw no sign of the Aurora. Up North in the Summer, it never gets properly dark, and is not a good place for observing the stars and the Aurora Borealis. A different matter in the winter when it is dark for most of the day.

Today we headed to the island of Vatersay, across the Causeway on the Southern side of Barra. The causeway caused R great concern. She was sure it would be underwater, salty and rust the car. She was surprised to see such a well-built high crossing. There are many of these causeways connecting the smaller islands together to the larger islands.

The roads on Vatersay were even narrower than the single track with passing spaces ones in Barra!

We headed to Bagh A’Deas, and parked near some houses. As we left the van, we could hear a Corncrake calling. This one did not know the rules about remaining hidden, there it was in the long grass moving around. We then walked across the Machair to the beaches. The Machair was incredibly beautiful, short grass which was covered in flowers. The flowers varied depending on where you were. Here it was daisy. Lots of cows and their calves were grazing on the daisy covered grasslands. The beach was yet again devoid of shells, other than small limpets. Good views of Sandray, and various other smaller islands.

On the walk back to the car we were accompanied by a flock of Lapwings, they did not like our presence and herded us across the Machair. Maybe they were protecting their nesting area, but to be accompanied for near 800 meters seemed excessive.

Back to the center of the island we stopped at the community café for a coffee, and cheesy chips. Here we walked down to Traigh a Bhaigh Beach and the Traigh Shiar Beach. Didn’t actually walk down to the latter, but viewed it from the side. There was a man rebuilding the wooden steps down to the beach.

Next stop was the Catalina Memorial, where the wreckage of a Catalina plane still lies, from its crash in 1944, leaving 3 dead but, thankfully, several survivors.

Final stop was on a beach looking towards Castlebay. Here there were two groups of people on the beach. One group were swimming in the sea. It was an idyllic spot, no wind and very warm. Yes we could strip off to our t-shirts.

We did not stop at the next view, as suggested by a photographer’s book I had bought. It was the gable end of a ruined house. We deemed it not very exciting.

Back on Barra, headed to the Co-op and bought supper and a bottle of gin from the distillery. The gin had a very distinctive flavour. Not sure whether we can grow into the taste. This set a precedent, and we later bought a bottle of Gin at any likely distillery on the islands.

Back at the campsite, the Great Northern Diver was there again. Diving down. It is amazing how fast it travels underwater.

Another camper on site has seen a Golden Eagle flying near a hill where we will be walking tomorrow.

In the evening, after such a lovely day, there were clouds, so limited chance to see the Northern lights. It did clear up a bit, but no sign at 11. 30. Set alarm for another hour, and still nothing at 12.30

Birds Photographed:

Corncrake
Oyster Catcher
Common Gull
Great Northern Diver
Lapwing

Track

Outer Hebrides – Barra

Posted on May 10, 2024 by SteveJune 23, 2024

10th May 2024

Today was predicted to be sunny, and it was. Started off with clouds around the hills, these eventually evaporated. In the morning, we went for a walk towards the North, visiting the cemetery and the beach across the Machair. There was a standing stone in the Machair, which we rudely thought rather small, and insignificant. On the walk we spotted birds, and for the record I have posted sample pictures of them. birds. The Northern Gannets were too far out for good photos, but I do have one with its beak almost touching the water. Seaside cemeteries are very much a feature of the islands, which have no crematorium.

We walked further North to a beach which had warnings of quicksand. This probably was caused by a river and lake on the land side of the beach

Back to the campsite (Borve Camping & Caravan Site), and R was talking with an Irish lad, who told us about the Corncrake, a noisy, highly unmelodious bird which calls for a mate all day and all night. During the day it makes a few croaks every 10 minutes. It is a master of disguise, and though you hear it, you don’t see it. We tried to find the Corncrake. We could hear it but could not see it.

The owner of the campsite, who is also the postman, gave us the option of moving the van, so we took this up and positioned the van overlooking the sea. This move came about because a group of three were arriving on today’s boat and they would prefer to be together. We now have a prime position overlooking the sea.

I mentioned the owner was the island postman, and he would turn up at the campsite in the post van or his own white van, depending on what he was doing.

We then went for a drive to the north east coast. Saw a plane take off from the beach. The beach is absolutely huge and flat. It supports three runways, used depending on the wind direction. We stalked a few birds. Drove to a jetty recommended for pictures and photographed some lobster pots. There were many sheep and lambs walking along the roads, they did have road sense and would amble to the side as you approached in the van.

We also drove to the port at Ardmhòr where we will be leaving the island, just to check out where it was. Very small with a carpark for waiting. A very small jetty for loading cars.

We tried to find a shop in Castlebay. I forgot there was a Co-op and a distillery off the main road. We didn’t find anywhere to purchase food. We will be back tomorrow to get milk and other provisions.

Back at the campsite we tried again to find the Corncrake. This time we encouraged it with a recording of its call. Out it came, coming towards us, to fend off a competitor male. Yes, we saw it, pictures taken. Not a very glamorous creature.

Sunset was not as good as it should have been.

Birds Photographed:

Oyster Catcher
Common Gull
Northern Gannet
Pied Wagtail
Arctic Tern
Common Sandpiper
Black-headed Gull
Pied Wheatear
Great Northern Diver (aka Loon)
Corncrake

Track

Outer Hebrides – Oban to Barra

Posted on May 9, 2024 by SteveJune 22, 2024

9th May 2024

We packed up the van and headed to Oban. Stopped at Tesco to fill up with diesel. Most of the pumps were devoid of diesel. Only two operating. After filling we drove to the port and parked in the waiting lanes. Left the van and went for a coffee at Costa. The sea food hut was already doing great business, well before lunch time.

[As an aside, I bought diesel on the mainland believing the island diesel would be expensive. This is not the case, the price of fuel on the islands is generally cheaper than on the mainland. There is some subsidy from the Scottish Government, or rather a reduced tax rate.]

We waited in the van for quite a long time. We seemed to be late boarding the ship. There was another ferry, bound for Mull, which arrived and then left before us.

We eventually left late but arrived pretty much on time. More than five hours on the ship. We ate a Stornoway Black pudding pizza for lunch on the boat. The journey is spectacular, after leaving Oban, and the Isle of Kerrera, you head towards the channel, (Sound of Mull) between mainland Scotland on the North, and the Isle of Mull on the South. There are islands and reefs, with lighthouses guarding the entry. The entry to the channel is also guarded by the spectacular Duart Castle. The image of the castle was very foreboding with the hills in the clouds.

Leaving the Sound of Mull you pass the Ardnamurchan lighthouse into open waters, making your way towards Barra and the port of Castlebay. Coming into Castlebay, you could see sandy white beaches on the port side. The heights of the island were obscured by clouds.

We disembarked and drove straight to the Borve Camping and Caravan Site, and set up the van for our evening meal. The campsite is right on the sea edge. You either parked your van on the edge looking out towards America, or if unlucky you parked one row back. We were unlucky the first night and did not have the sea view. The pitches had all been allocated, and a board with our name and the number of nights was at the entrance to the site and on the pitch. This was in case the owner was not about.

Our camping neighbour stopped to apologise in advance for having to leave at 04:30 the next morning to catch a ferry. The time had been changed dramatically. Interesting chap who we chatted to over drinks and cheese with a Hi-Top VW he’d managed to buy second-hand.

As you can see from the pictures, the weather was not good, there was low lying cloud everywhere, making for some scenic pictures. Who wants boring blue skies!

Track

Outer Hebrides – Oban

Posted on May 8, 2024 by SteveJune 22, 2024

8th May 2024

Today, the day started cloudy, but with the sun peeking through. We drove into Oban and parked on the quay. We walked over to the ferry terminal and checked on departure times and also checked the sea food shack we’d read about. Rosemary and I then visited Costa for a coffee, before walking up the hill to take a look over the harbour from McCaig’s Tower & Battery Hill. It was a sharp walk up the hill. Could have parked up here.

Some interesting plants growing in the gardens around here.

Walking down, we stopped at the Oban distillery. Very crowded, did not do the distillery tour. Did not buy any whisky, nothing under £60. R saw a man ask the price of a bottle, he even had his credit card in his hand, was told it was £220, so he quickly put it down.

Went for lunch at the Oban Seafood Hut. (Green Shack). Busy, but we were soon served. I went for langoustine, told they were off, but I did see them being served with the sea food platter, so I went for mussels in garlic sauce, Rosemary chose the scallops. Across the table from us one of the guys was from Australia, complaining about the fact you can’t purchase kippers and smoked goods in Australia. They ate the sea food platter which looked excellent.

Afterwards we headed back, but I decided to go to a tearoom opposite Castle Stalker. Ended up going down a no through road, no turning around and a big f*** off sign.

So back to the campsite.

Went for a walk behind the site. Lovely forest for Douglas Firs. Some huge trees. Many bat boxes were installed on the trees. Unfortunately, part of the pathway was closed because of fallen trees.

Back at the campsite, the rain started as we were having a drink. We sat there under our new sun awning, drinking our pre-prandial drinks, and being very British about the weather. This rain was predicted, and unfortunately the next few days will be like this. We ate a crab sandwich and prawn sandwich for supper, purchased at the Oban Seafood Hut. Quite filling and a nice supper.