Kilimanjaro Trek – Day 9

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Today the tour group split up, some flying home, others having a beach holiday in Zanzibar. Paul Tom and I were going on Safari. Breakfast at 7.00 and then we were picked up by our driver, Elvis, and driven to Tarangire National Park for a game drive. This was a four-hour drive on an excellent road. Some sections were a little slow, getting stuck behind a heavy lorry creeping up a hill. Our driver kept to the speed limits of 50kph in villages and town, otherwise he drove as fast as the Landcruiser would drive. The scary bit was the distance behind the vehicle in front, (or lack of distance). Sometimes approaching a vehicle in front at high speed, and then swinging out onto the other side of the road at the last second dodging the oncoming traffic. Tuk Tuks, the main transport, other than tourists in Landcruisers, were no problem. They kept very much to the side of the road, and you could then have four lanes of traffic.

When we left Weru Weru River Lodge, we picked up a packed lunch from the hotel. At all the hotels, the packed lunches were similar and always packed in a square cardboard box. Mine was gluten free, it basically had all the bread items removed, no replacement items. We stopped at a tourist shop selling carvings and had a loo break. Later on, we stopped and picked up some bottled water.

The land on the roadside was grazed by the nomadic Masai goat herders. We took a short detour through a goat auction, goats were being brought in by the Masai and being auctioned.

We arrived at the Tarangire National Park entrance, which was terribly busy with more than twenty Landcruiser waiting entry. Elvis paid the entry and we were soon on our way. Inside the park the grass was very lush and green. The rains had recently started. The park appeared far greener than the lands outside the park, presumably because there are too many goats grazing the land outside.

We soon found a herd of Elephants who were on their way to a water hole. We watched them for a long time as they played in the water. There were some young elephants being introduced to the water. It was a riveting watch. I make no excuse for the substantial number of Elephant photographs I have placed in the blog. Bored of elephants, you could divert your attention to the birds on the water.

Over the radio there was a report of a Leopard sighting, so we headed off to see it. It was visible along with dinner hanging in a tree. Not the best view of a Leopard I have had, but still worthwhile.

On the way back from the Leopard sighting, we came across a herd of Baboons. There were many youngsters riding on their mothers. We also saw Impala, Ostriches, Buffalo, Giraffe, and a dear little Mongoose living in a termite mound. We headed towards the cliff which overhangs the river. This was the lunch spot where you could get out, sit at tables, eat lunch and visit the loo. Eating lunch, you had to be careful of the monkeys who would sneak up and grab the food off the table. They failed with us.

After we finished, we headed off towards the Ngorongoro crater to stay in the Bougainvillea Safari Lodge in Karatu. This entailed a drive around Lake Manyara and then up the Western escarpment of the Rift Valley. We arrived at the hotel, each of us had our own chalet, with large bed and shower. Supper was good, with six courses, pork, chicken and salads. (Yes, my appetite had returned.) Beer at the bar, where I tried to order a Negroni, but ended up with a Campari Spritzer. I shall try again tomorrow,

Todays Route

Kilimanjaro Trek – Day 8

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Millennium Camp (3790M) – Mweka Gate (1653M)

Today we had a five-hour walk (12km) walk down to Mweka Gate. We split into two groups, the fast group (mine) making it down 20 minutes before the rest. We sat around with some Internet and a drink. Pictures at the bottom. When the group was together, we visited a restaurant / tourist shop for lunch. The lunch was cooked by our chef. There was also singing (loudly this time).

After lunch, there was a drive back to Weru Weru River Lodge. On route we stopped at the bank for Jimmy to change the tip dollars into shillings. Finally arrived at the hotel for showers and supper. Before I could shower, arrangements were made with the Safari driver who was taking three of us on for a mini safari to see the Big Five.

Tonight, we sat and drank Kilimanjaro beer and ate a hot buffet supper in the bar.

Certificates were handed out to those who had completed the climb of Kilimanjaro. (I actually got one, but it wasn’t as ornate nor in colour as were those of the others.)

Kilimanjaro Trek – Day 7

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Barafu Camp – Summit (5895M) – Millennium Camp (3790M)

Before we set off, I dressed in multiple layers to keep warm. Walking through the night and at high altitude, it was going to be cold. I think I had six layers on.

  • Long sleeved Marino wool base layer
  • T shirt
  • Long sleeved T shirt
  • A Fat Face Top
  • Fleece
  • Goose Down Jacket and Hood.

My legs had a couple of layers, and my hands a couple of pairs of gloves. I was lovely and warm.

We set off at 11.00pm and started the slow walk to the summit. First, we had to pass through the campsite and then onwards and up. I was really struggling and was out of breath on the walk up. Eventually after climbing 590m and reaching 5150M I had had enough. There was a discussion, and the guides were already thinking I should turn back. Some part of me thinks I could have gone on it if we had done shorter walks before taking a break. I read that often groups took fifteen paces and paused. We seemed to go for several minutes before stopping for three minutes. I found the long but slow walking intervals just too much for me.

Jimmy, the tour leader, accompanied me down. The way down started on a different route to the way up. The way down was down a scree slope. I quite enjoyed this, despite the darkness and we made fast progress. Picking our way down through the later rock path was challenging. On the way down, there were several climbers who had succumbed to the altitude, and even one stretcher case.

We made it down to the campsite, and I went back to my sleeping bag.

The rest of the team completed the challenge and made it to Stella Point and eventually the peak at Uhuru Point. They saw the sun rise. They made it back down, had breakfast and a rest.

Summit Attempt

Summit Attempt
Summit Attempt

Barafu Camp(4673M) – Millenium Camp(3800M)

We then set off at around 9.30 for a 90-minute trek down the mountain to the Millenium Campsite at 3800M I had recovered and raced down the mountain with one of the guides, arriving just as it started to pour with rain. The others on the trip down were not so lucky weather wise and caught the full rain. Before Supper, there was a large meeting and tips for the porters, cooks and guides were announced. We all put in $200 dollars each. This was going to be changed to Tanzania Shilling the next day and handed out. Before the meeting there were some calculations as to how much each person was to be given. Jimmy rejected some of the dollar bills, they had to be newer than 2006. Dollar bills older than 2006 get a lower exchange rate because they were deemed risky. One client was incensed that Sainsburys had given her old notes, which looked uncirculated.

Millenium Camp
Barafu Camp(4673M) – Millenium Camp(3800M)

Kilimanjaro Trek – Day 6

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Karanga Camp(3950M) – Barafu Camp(4673M)

The morning promised a beautiful bright day, the sun picking out the rocks on Kilimanjaro. As the day progressed the cloud came in and we were finally walking in cloud.

Today’s walk was short, a little over 3km, but with a rise of 700 metres. It was quite tiring, and my camera was confiscated to reduce my weight. Our campsite was in a very quiet area, and well below the official Barafu campsite. This was to be the launch point for the final ascent of Kilimanjaro. The walk took around three hours and we arrived for an early lunch. Over lunch we had a briefing for the final ascent. The accent was due to start at 11.00pm. We would be walking up the mountain, in the dark, lit by a full moon and our head torches. The intention was to reach the summit around dawn. There would be a guide for each of us, so there was someone to look after each and every one of us. If necessary, they would carry your day bag. Oxygen would be taken for emergency use, and a portable hyperbaric (pressurisation) bag in case anyone suffered from high-altitude cerebral edema, or high-altitude pulmonary edema. We were advised to remove bottle filters; in case they froze up.

After lunch we went to our tents to attempt to sleep before climbing time. This proved difficult, the tent went from boiling hot, when the sun shone, to freezing cold when the sun disappeared behind a cloud. We were duly woken at 9.30 pm for supper and the start of the final ascent.

Our route to Barafu Camp

Our route to Barafu Camp
Our route to Barafu Camp

Kilimanjaro Trek – Day 5

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Barranco Wall Camp(3900M) – Karanga Camp(3950M)

Today’s walk was a little under 5km, and the overall gain in height from start to finish was small. Despite the short distance and small height gain, the walk was challenging. There were several sections where scrambling and clinging to the rocks were required. The route also contained two intermediate peaks and had three climbs. The overall vertical distance climbed today was 850 meters.

The coffee arrived at 6.00 and we set off at 6.45 for the 4 3/4-hour walk. When we topped the second hill, the final scramble came into view. It looked horrible, with a stream of ants walking up through the rocks. I took pity on the water harvesters because they had to descend further to the clean stream, and then return up the path carrying the water.

The number of people staying in the campsites is now far more than when we started the trek. From the Barranco Wall Camp there are additional routes up the mountain, direct from Moshi. These routes brought additional trekkers to the campsites. There are a great mix of climbers, some dressed in traditional costumes from their country. We debated whether they were Swiss, German or Austrian. Another small Asante group were climbing and accompanying us. One of the men worked 3 months a year as an electrician and spent the rest of the year travelling. In the same group was a 22-year-old woman who was the daughter of the owner of the Weru Weru River lodge.

On arrival we had lunch of fried chicken and chips. Managed to eat more than normal, but it all had to be washed down with water.

Our route to Karanga Camp

Our route to Karanga Camp
Our route to Karanga Camp

Kilimanjaro Trek – Day 4

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Shira Two Camp (3850M) – Barranco Wall Camp(3900M)

Today was going to be a gruelling day, a 4-hour 30-minute walk up to Lava Tower, 6 kilometres, and a climb of 730 metres to around 4600 meters. This was followed by a decent to Barranco Wall Camp, a 2-hour 30-minute walk with a descent of six hundred metres.

We started dressed-up in jackets and warm clothing and protected from the sun. Quite a few stops were taken on the walk to allow us to recuperate from the altitude. It was hard going, but I managed to keep up with everyone else. Lava Tower has a campsite; it provides the staging post for an ascent of Kilimanjaro up the Barranco Wall. We stopped here for lunch, the kitchen and loo tents have been erected here. Again, I was not hungry, and only ate a small amount of food. [Ed note – loss of appetite for Steve is unheard of.]

Afterwards we walked down to Baranco Camp, losing all the height we had gained. This walk was relatively easy, except that I tripped a couple of times so had my day sack removed and was given a couple of sticks to help me down. How embarrassing is that?

Back at the campsite we had supper, again not hungry. I tried to reduce my bread intake as much as possible, thinking I may have an issue with gluten. I was also presented with some oat energy bars to eat on the walks by the Lithuania lady, Inga. She had masses of bars and was doling them out to whoever needed them. Rather too late, I started taking to Diamox in the hope this would help me.

Our Route to Barranco Camp via Lava Tower

Our Route to Barranco Camp via Lava Tower
Our Route to Barranco Camp via Lava Tower

Kilimanjaro Trek – Day 3

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Shira One Camp (3610M) – Shira Two Camp (3850M)

A little lie-in today, coffee in bed at 6.30. Today’s walk to Shira Camp 2 is short. We started off at 8.00 am and soon saw some Jackal footprints.

Today’s walk started off through short scrubland. The Shira 2 Camp site was soon visible on an exposed ridge above us. It was likely to be cold. We arrived for lunch, which we ate in the mess tent. The temperature in the tent ranged from cold, to boiling hot, depending on the state of the sun.

Today three of us crowded into the Chef’s tent to see how food was prepared, and to help prepare the popcorn for tea. The kitchen was a small blue ridge tent. It was quite a tight squeeze to fit us, the cook and helper, into the tent. Cooking was done on a couple of large gas cylinders with an integral ring. These were used for all the cooking and heating hot water for washing in the mornings and evenings. I could see only two large light weight cooking pots which were used for stews, roasting chicken, making omelettes, pancakes and of course the popcorn which we had a helping hand in producing. There were no tables, and food preparation was done sitting down on the ground with the same plastic chopping boards I use at home. How they produced these meals for us and fed all the porters and guides was quite unbelievable. Food supplies were getting short, and there was going to be a restock of food and gas the next day, all brought up to the Baranco camp.

After the demonstration cook, we had tea at 3.30, and then a short walk-up tomorrow’s path to take us above 4,000 Meters to help us acclimatise to the altitude. This walk was quite hard work, and I was beginning to get out of breath. Back down again, and then supper. It was at this stage I noticed my appetite for food had gone. I noticed I was still eating after everyone else had finished.

No rain today, I was sleeping well during the night. I was not cold, no headaches, just a total loss of appetite.

Our Route to Shira Two Camp

Our Route to Shira Two Camp
Our Route to Shira Two Camp

Kilimanjaro Trek – Day 2

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Mti Mkubwa Camp (2650M) – Shira One Camp (3610M)

We are woken at the start of the day with a cup of coffee or tea. Today it was at 6.00am, still dark. We have 30 minutes to drink coffee, get dressed, pack our bags, and then leave them outside on a canvas mat. Once the luggage is there the porters can dismantle and pack the tents away and start the transport of the tents and bags to the new site. An individual porter is responsible for your bag and tent. You are always housed in the same tent for the whole of the trek. Each tent is labelled with a number, as is the luggage. My tent was number 5, and when you arrive at a new campsite, you look for the tent, number 5, and there it is with your bag already in it.

Today there were some monkeys in the trees, blue monkeys. Managed to grab a few pictures, two of which are reasonable. Breakfast in the mess tent was a runny porridge, frankfurter, omelette, and papaya. Tea or coffee. Started on coffee, but transferred to tea, not liking instant coffee.

Our walk today was to Shira One Camp. This was an up and down walk, starting in the rainforest, then into the heather and finally open space. It was a lovely walk, plenty of trees and flowers to see, then as the trees disappeared, we were greeted with views back to the lowlands around the base of the mountain.

On the walk we passed the first of several helipads built by Roman Abramovich in his 2009 attempt to climb Kilimanjaro. He failed to summit and gave up the fight at 4,500M, and was helicoptered out. We had a couple of snack breaks on the way to Shira One. We reached the campsite for lunch of chicken and French fries.

After lunch it poured with rain, and my tent sprang several leaks. The tent porters soon corrected them, so I had a dry, snug tent. At every camp stop, there are two containers of water, one drinking and the other warm for washing. Filled a bowl of warm water and had a quick wash in my tent. Should have brought a towel to dry. My tee shirt is absolutely covered with salt stains from the two days of walking and sweating. Should have brought a few more clothes on the hike. No problem I change into one set of cloths for socialising in the evening and the smelly, sweaty cloths for walking. It will be getting cooler now, so there will be something on over the tee shirt.

Water is gathered at each stop. Sometimes the water team must walk long distances to find the clean stream, other times the water is close nearby,

In the pictures you can see our tents, and the two loo tents, one for the women, and the other for the men. The campsites do have their own permanent toilets, these are very smelly and dirty, they are the squat type of toilets. The portable toilets in their tents were nice to have and were kept clean.

As evening approached, the rain stopped, and I was able to grab some snaps of the campsite and a nearby stream. This evening we were entertained by quiet singing from the porter team. This was quiet, because singing in the park had been banned, with some guides losing their license to lead groups. COVID was used as an excuse to ban singing.

Supper tonight was rice and vegetables. It was much cooler tonight, so when I went to bed, I still wore most of my clothes. Still lovely and warm in my sleeping bag.

Our Route to Shira One Camp

Mti Mkubwa Camp (2650M) - Shira One Camp (3610M)
Mti Mkubwa Camp (2650M) – Shira One Camp (3610M)

Kilimanjaro Trek – Day 1

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Lemosho Gate (2100M) – Mti Mkubwa Camp (2650M)

Today, Friday 11th February, was the start of the trek. Up and ready by 7.00 am for breakfast of mixed grill and fruit. Afterwards I repacked, splitting my luggage into three, the trekking luggage to be carried by the porters, luggage to leave behind and my day sack. I had yet to see the sleeping bag I had ordered; I was assured it would be there in the tent at the first campsite. Others had also ordered a sleeping bag, even those who had their own bag, saves luggage space.

The group was split into two Land Cruisers, and we headed off out to the start of the epic trek at the Lemosho Gate. The highway was on an exceptionally good tarmac road. (Chinese built for mineral rights?) The traffic was terribly slow, and then there were flashing lights as government limos sped past. Apparently, the prime minister was out and about. Instead of continuing along the tarmac road we set off cutting the corner of the triangle on dirt roads. This took us through a township and alongside many cultivated fields. The townships, and shops looked remarkably like my memory of Kenya 60 years before. Cultivation was in full swing, mainly manual with jembes, and women sowing the seeds. I did see one tractor. (The land behind our hotel had been ploughed mechanically.) This work was all in preparation for the short rains which were due to start in the next week or so. We spotted Zebra on some of the grassland areas.

We eventually re-contacted the metalled road and continued at a fast pace to the Lemosho Gate. There (2100 meters) we had a picture opportunity under the sign. We collected our lunch and filled our water bottles with clean water. Our porters were having their luggage weighed by the park authorities to ensure they were not overloaded and exploited. There were eight of us clients, and thirty-four supporting us. The thirty-four included the tour leader, Jimmy, our guides, cook, toilet operatives, water fetchers, the manager, and the porters. Three porters per client.

We started our walk through the rainforest. There were Colobus monkeys, who remained very hidden, and plenty of birds. I carried my large lens, but no obliging critters posed long enough to be photographed. Part way up the walk we stopped for lunch (fried chicken) so arrived at the camp at around 2.30. The path up was very well made and not steep, it was all through the rainforest. The walk was warm, I wore shorts and a tee shirt. At the campsite, after dusk, it soon became cool, so I wore fleece and long trousers.

At the camp site the sound of thunder boomed around, and the clouds grew larger. This was to be repeated every day. From morning to midday there were no or few clouds. As the day progressed the clouds took over the sky, and thunder then became pretty well continuous. We were lucky to get extraordinarily little rain.

We had an excellent meal of pumpkin soup, spaghetti and meat. We were all seated in a large mess tent with a table and chairs, all brought up by the porters. Several Ravens provided a photo opportunity, they are scavengers on the lookout for a free meal. The night was warm in my rented four-season sleeping bag. The Colobus monkeys provided a noisy soundscape to the forest throughout the night. Some obliging monkeys showed themselves in the morning.

Our Route to the Lemosho Gate and the walk to the first camp at Mti Mkubwa Campcam

Kilimanjaro. Drive from Weru Weru River lodge to Lemosho Gate
Drive from Weru Weru River Lodge to Lemosho gate, and then walk up to Mti Mkubwa Camp
Kilimanjaro. Lemosho Gate to Mti Mkubwa Camp
Kilimanjaro. Lemosho Gate to Mti Mkubwa Camp

Kilimanjaro Trek – Travel Out

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The earlier trip to Morocco had been a practice run for the climb up Kilimanjaro. So, I felt confident I would succeed in climbing Kili. I booked the trip quite late to Kili, the last booking I believe. The Omicron variant initially stopped me from bookin. I thought Tanzania would be added to the red list to join South Africa and several other African nations. It soon became apparent this wasn’t happening, and the red list soon lost its African countries. I booked the trip in January, getting a 20% discount from Explore. Unseen benefit!

I few weeks before travelling, I bought insurance for it, which had to include cover for over 6,000 meters. I also completed my Tanzania visa application online. The visa was granted withing 36 hours.

Despite the wind down of the pandemic, there were rules still to be obeyed for entry into Tanzania. A couple of days before travelling a PCR test was taken and delivered to the pickup point just off the M40. I waited with my fingers crossed for the result to be texted to me the next day. Yes. Negative, so I could travel.

The next day (9th February), I had to complete a Tanzania passenger locator form, and pay $10 for an LFT for when I arrived in the country. Not sure what happens when you fail this test. I assume, holiday over and into state isolation. I decided to travel to Heathrow by train and the Piccadilly line, no way was I going to pay the rip off Heathrow express fares. The alternative, the Oxford Airline bus service, is still not back to its pre-Covid timetable.

Arrived at Heathrow unstressed, checking in quickly, presenting my paperwork, (visa, vaccination status, PCR test and booked LFT). Soon I was in the departure lounge. Many of the bars and restaurants are still not open in Terminal 2. Even the bar I had a pint in closed shortly after I entered.

Soon I was boarding the flight to Addis Ababa, and despite not purchasing My Sheeba Space, I had an empty seat next to me. Ethiopian Airlines was very insistent that I should bid to upgrade to business class, or failing that, I should purchase empty seats next to me, the so-called Sheeba Space. The food on the flight was good. Two meals on the flight to Addis, and they also did not stint on the wine. Another meal and wine on the short flight to Kili. Some European, American, and British airlines have something to learn about when it comes to service.

In Addis I transferred to the flight to Kilimanjaro Airport. This was a fullish flight although there was a spare seat next to me again. I could not believe so many were flying to Kili, only realising later that the flight was destined to Zanzibar, and only twenty people disembarked at Kili. Small airport where I was temperature checked and had my LFT test. (Very gentle tester.) Seems they were testing only the British. Americans did not get tested, and I heard one American demanding her $10 back. I had slept during some of this flight but luckily awoke as we were flying over Lake Naivasha, Kenya. A town I once lived in. Homes and cultivation now surround the whole of the lake.

There was one other Kili client on my flight. We were both picked up and driven to Weru Weru River Lodge around 60 minutes away. All the other clients had arrived on earlier flights through Nairobi. Some had been booked on to my flight but Explore had cancelled their flights and put them on the Nairobi route. This was because of the escalating war in Ethiopia. I think because I was a late booker, the security issues had diminished, and the Ethiopian Airlines option was back on.

We arrived at the lodge, showered, and then met the others for the briefing. The lodge has large well-appointed rooms. There was a swimming pool and bar. Even managed to get a Negroni for a relaxing evening drink. Oh and of course WiFi.

Supper was terribly slow to be served. Despite the number of chefs, it appeared ages to prepare. I ate an Avocado salad, followed by Nile Pike.