Outer Hebrides – North Uist

15th May 2024

Today was a far better day, the sun was shining, and it was time for us to move up to North Uist passing through Benbecula. We also stopped at many of the places we should have visited yesterday but hadn’t because of the shite weather. We left the campsite at 9.15 and headed North.

First stop was a little after 10, at Cladh Hallan, the site of a Bronze Age settlement, which had been excavated and mummies found. The sand dunes were covered with rabbits and their rabbit holes. Hundreds upon hundreds of holes. We continued walking down to the beach. Beach was huge, with white sand, but was covered in seaweed from recent winter storms. For this stop we parked by a yet another cemetery and walked down a track to the settlement.

Back to the main road for our 2nd stop at the Co-op to buy some lunch, but forgot to buy R any wine. (i’m fine with beer.)

Continuing up the main road our third stop was the Kildonan Museum just before 11.00. The museum was very good. We learnt about the clearances, and life in the Hebrides. How Celtic was the main language, with more influence from Ireland than Scotland.

Next we drove down a narrow track, a dirt road to the Kildonan Beach and parked on the edge of the beach. Here we saw seals basking on the on the rocks. A lone walker appeared from the south and headed inland.

After this visit we drove on North and stopped near a Youth Hostel. Here we looked at a ruined church, and derelict houses. The church and graveyard were fenced off and there were war graves here. In the carpark there were 4 VW vans all lined up. Very smart.

After here we headed to the East Coast where there had been a small port, now barricaded off. A lovely spot. Around here there were some ponies, there was also a field with black pigs. The silence of the inlet was broken by the incessant calling of a cuckoo with the added sound of its call echoing off the far cliffs. Finally, there was the noise of a motorboat. Forgiven because it made a picturesque wake. Driving back a quick stop at an RSPB site. Laziness meant we did not walk down to the lake. A Northern Wheatear was spotted.

We then crossed the sea on yet another causeway to the island of Benbecula. A rather flat island, at least on the route we drove around the West side to get to the North Uist.

Detour to the North Uist Distillery. The lady in the distillery was very helpful, we were able to taste their two gins, neat and with tonic, and were impressed by the flavours. I also sampled their Negroni. So we ended up buying a bottle of Downpour gin (aptly named). As we walked back to the van, I said I was disappointed at not being allowed a bottle of Negroni. So, R walked back to get one. R really liked the gins. The Negroni was a little smoother than the ones I make. I expect it contained classier Martini Rosso and Campari. They were in the process of building a whisky distillery. Should start distilling this year, so must visit again in four years’ time when they will have some young whisky on sale.

A little further North there was another whisky distillery about to open. There are few whisky distilleries in the Outer Hebrides, this appears to be changing.

Before we crossed into North Uist, we stopped at a MacLennans supermarket for more food, and a bottle of pink for Rosemary. I drove to the location fast as it was due to close at 5.00. On the route we had ambulance, police and fire brigade coming towards us. Must have been an accident on Benbecula, or even on South Uist.

Around the North of Benbecula, here there seemed to be a lot of habitation, industry, hospital, police and fire brigade services.

The roads are odd in the islands. Yes, there are many single track roads with passing places, but the large main route up the island is seemingly being improved to two-way roads. These though were short sections which would descend into the usual one lane roads with passing spaces. All with a 60mph speed limit, except in built up areas where it would descend to 40mph and occasionally 30mph

At a steadier pace we finally arrived a Balranald Campsite, set up our van for the next few days, It does have two shower and loo blocks, but quite small. It did seem very busy, and all the pitches were full. We watched a superb sunset at 9.47.