Outer Hebrides – Lewis Chess Pieces
24th May 2024
The day started with a mist/fog and looked really miserable. Anyway, we set off to Stornoway, because we had not visited Lews Castle. There was a museum there, which has six of the original Lewis chess pieces. The drive across the island was in fog, with lights on. As we drove East the weather did clear up, so I was able to turn off the lights. Parked in the grounds of the castle and entered the reception. The castle rooms were not open, a wedding today. The café and museum were open.
We looked around the museum, small but interesting. The chess pieces were guarded by a very talkative Hebridean custodian. He was difficult to stop, and of course Stephen asked about the relationship with the British Museum, and how long they had the 6 chess pieces for. (Good, and on permanent loan.) The six pieces where the King, Queen, Bishop, Knight, Warder and Pawn. Warders are foot soldiers in the King’s army. They are his personal armed guard and part of his royal household. The most ferocious Warders are known as Berserkers because they bite their shields to get themselves ready for battle. The pawn in the Lewis chess set is the only chess pieces that doesn’t look human.
There were other exhibits including the computer which used to run the payroll for the council in the 60s. We ate an early soup lunch in the restaurant, and another talkative employee regaled us about the London 5* chef that ran the kitchens. I presume they did posh food for events and weddings as was happening today. A bowl of soup does not need a 5* chef.
We took a walk around the gardens, rather disappointing, not up to the standard of the museum, or café.
Next, we drove East to view the Aiginis Farm Raiders’ Monument, and the St Columba’s Church (Eaglais na h-Aoidhe) church. They were next door to each other. The church was roofless and derelict but had a waterproof wooden building inside protection the tomb stones.
Drove on to Timpan Head, where there is a lighthouse. Automatic now, so the lighthouse keepers’ dwellings were now a home and dog kennels. Some nice cliffs here and sea birds were flying, nesting in the cliffs
Now drove back to the campsite, stopping at the The Shieling Barvas and Brue. A shepherd’s hut, where they slept while tending the sheep and cattle. R though the shieling was really very cute.
Back to the campsite, a slight precipitation, but not too bad. Running out of food.