Outer Hebrides

19th May 2024

Packed away the van up leisurely and started our journey to the port at Berneray. We stopped at Clachan Sands Camping ground for a picnic lunch. There were a few motorhomes parked on the grass in front of the beach, plus a few tables, benches and a bin. We ate lunch here as there was no alternative. On Sundays everything appears closed. Shops, even cafes and restaurants. The only services in operation are the ferries.

Driving back to the main road, we passed the cemetery which R had coo-ed over as we went past it on our way to the beach. The whole of the ground around the graves was covered in primroses. So this time, I agreed to take a photo, but on her phone so we didn’t need to stop for long. Time & ferries wait for no man.

But, in the end, we made it to the ferry in plenty of time. It was moored at the other end of the causeway. Boarding time arrived, and the ferry came over to pick us up.

The trip to Leverburgh is very twisty, around rocks. Well-marked by buoys, at one stage I thought we were going the wrong side of a green buoy. Going out of the harbour the green on the left, red on the right. Going into the harbour, it’s the other way around. Green on the right, red on the left. At what point does the change occur on the crossing? A critical decision.

We disembarked and headed to Lickisto Black House camping. We chose the shortest route, which took us on the East coast. These were some of the narrowest roads with steep long drops on either side of the road. R was not happy. All the other vehicles departing the boat went around the west coast, where the road is wider, and there are many Harris parking spaces next to the sea. Thankfully, there were very few other vehicles on the road.

We made it to the site. It is kind of idyllic, especially for the hiking or biking camper. Small, secluded, imaginatively-named pitches next to no one, but a community shelter for cooking, reading, and getting warm. It also has secluded pre-erected tents; yurts are stretching it. It’s not ideal for vans, few spots and all together. No dirty water or chemical disposal (not that we need that) on site. We called this site, the Hobbit Campsite, partly because some of the building appeared to be buried into the ground, the windy paths, and the names of some of camping spots.

Extremely friendly cats came to inspect us and our unit. Black cat even had a good look inside. We appeared to pass muster. Faded Ginger just said hello and inspected the outside.

The guy who owns the place says there are otters, and that an eagle was seen yesterday. Of course, today there was nothing.