7th May 2024

We set off from Tebay a little after 8.00.  Weather was lovely at Tebay, sunny. As we drove North towards Glasgow the skies clouded over. Thankfully this was for a brief time, and by the time we reached our first stop, the sky was lovely and blue. So much better taking pictures of flowers in the sunlight at Ardkinglas.

Our first stop was the Ardkinglas Arboretum which includes Champion Trees and a renowned collection of Rhododendrons and Azaleas – particularly suitable for visiting in May and June when in full flower but worth a visit at any time of year. Dramatic views over Loch Fyne, Old Mill on banks of River Fyne which runs through the gardens, Scriptorium and many other unique features.  The garden is on several levels with various terrains to suit a variety of physical abilities and preferences. 

The flowers at Ardkinglas were fabulous. There is scheduled walk of about an hour through woods there and back. The bluebells were spectacular. The site was so enjoyable, we were there for well over two hours. We even saw a red squirrel. climbing up a tree, when, of course, amera was not ready 🙁

To make it interesting for the younger folk, and young at heart, there was a sculpture-type trail.

There was a Poetry Gazebo (the scriptorium) where you could rest, the sign said:

This gazebo is made of Argyll oak and was originally built for the Glasgow Garden festival in 1988. Take a seat and enjoy the view and the sayings included in this scriptorium. They are all centred around trees and are from such diverse poets and authors as Voltaire, Spike Milligan and local author Robin Jenkins.

Some magnificent trees filled the wood, including a rare species (Tsuga mertensania var. jeffreyi) from the US. Discovered in 1851 amongst seedlings of Hemlock being propagated in the Royal Botanic Gardens, Edinburgh. The seed had come from British Columbia, but no trace of the variety could be found. One hundred years later, trees of the same species were discovered in Washington state.

We also saw what used to be the tallest known tree in Britain, alas overtaken now, There was also ‘Europes Mightiest Tree’, a European silver fir.

On advice from the reception, we headed off to the local ‘Fyne’ Brewery and Tap. Had a pint, and bought a slab of cans for our trip, and then headed onwards.

We dropped the next scheduled garden stop on the shores of Loch Fynn but stopped at some stones, Dunchraigaig Cairn. This stop was short, there was a burial cairn amongst some trees, and a short distance away a number of standing stones surrounded by cows and calves.

We then headed on over to the campsite. at Barcaldine. Unfortunately got stuck behind a truck and trailer, on narrow roads.  So instead of going through Oban, we took a short cut over the hill, which was alas on single track roads. A bit of a slow route, but a learning experience for the oncoming weeks.

At the campsite, R tried to get a pitch with electricity, I had booked no hookup. This failed, despite the manager’s best efforts. So, no problem, and it was not cold at night. Charming site in the walled garden of a once large house.

Walked down to the shore, not friendly because a huge salmon breeding factory was there, complete with “Private Keep Out” notices.  We eventually ended up ignoring the warning signs and made it to the beach.

Track