Category Archives: New Zealand

Dunedin and the Taieri Gorge Railway – Apr 02

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Ed Sheeran in Dunedin

The rain pounded down hard on the roof in the early morning. A little lie-in, and when the rain stopped at 8.30 we got up to shower as did the rest of the campsite. Lots of Ed Sheeran fans in the campsite who had arrived back from the concert at 11.30. Rosemary said they made a lot of noise, I had heard nothing,

After a delayed shower we made it out at 10, to a lovely blue sky. Today we had a walk around Dunedin, or, is it Edinburgh? All the street names are from Edinburgh, Prices Street, George Street, Frederick Street, Hanover Street, Heriot Row, Leith Street. There’s a statue of Robert Burns. The area names are also duplicates, such as Musselburgh, Helensburgh, Corstorphine and we camped next to the River Leith.

A wander around, the purchase of a t-shirt to celebrate Ed Sheeran and his concert here, and then it was lunch. Lunch cos we would be back later than normal in the evening. We duly examined the menus. R rejected the burger restaurants. We finally alighted on Vault 21 which had an interesting menu. A beer, 8.5%, followed by a weaker beer at 5.5%, two plates of yummy food. and we were ready for the train trip. Oh, one thing, we missed noting that there was a 15% additional charge for a Bank Holiday!

Arrived at the wonderful station and caught the tourist trip to Pukerangi through the Taieri Gorge. Some grand scenery and some wonderful engineering with the viaducts and bridges clinging to the side of the gorge.  The whole trip would have been a little bit more enjoyable but for a Spanish couple sitting opposite us who took the cult of selfies to a new level, along with very loud, fairly non-stop talking.

Back at the station, it was now getting dark, so straight on home for some more beers and a frugal supper of sandwiches which had been on sale on the train at the bargain price of $3 each.

Bendigo Gold Mine and Hayes Engineering Workshop – Apr 01

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Ophir, old mining town

Busy day today and the clocks went back in New Zealand, so a possible early start, and dark finish for the day.

Today we were heading to Dunedin, where we heard Ed Sheeran was performing his final three performances, on consecutive nights. Dunedin has a population of 120,000. Ed, in the three days he performed here, was playing to a total of 120,000 people. It seems the city has become obsessed with Ed Sheeran, there was even an Easter Egg Hunt. The aim was to find a photograph of Ed Sheeran inspired street art, your best Forsyth Barr experience (where Ed played) and to snap and tag yourself in front of the Ed Sheeran wall. There were also take off t-shirts on sale in a variety of designs but wait until you see mine.

We packed up on a cool but cloudless day and head East, stopping at various tourist attractions on the way. At one point we saw people sitting out in the wilderness on chairs staring into the valley, we concluded they were cheap skate plane spotters who wanted to watch the Wanaka War Planes in action this Easter Sunday. They had been flying the previous two days, and I think today was going to be a big fly day.

Our first stop was Bendigo, a gold mine. The mine was a small cave in a rather inaccessible place. First we had to cross yet another ford (yeah!), and then drive up some steep dirt roads. Parked on the verge and then scrabbled down into a steep valley. Yes, the mine was there, impressive. We met two other people who had visited the place 30 years ago. They commented on the massive changes here, where once there was scrub, now there were vineyards.

Next stop was Ophir. This was an old mining town with some of the building still in existence.  We had a coffee and cakes at Pitches Store which is an impressive building built during the Gold rush era. The town was a one street hillbilly type of habitation.

A short drive on was the Hayes Engineering Workshop. We hit it on an open day. Country music, BBQ and women spinning were the features to come to our attention. We skirted by this to look at the exhibits. The workshop was founded by Hayes who emigrated to New Zealand from Warwickshire and started making implements which would help him farm. He ended up selling his wares around New Zealand, employing men in the factory and employing salesmen and saleswomen to sell his wares throughout NZ

Nearby we stopped at a gold mine head where there were about 20 cyclists visiting the area, all leaving their bikes on the verge. A quick 20-minute visit and then we were on are way. This time non-stop to Dunedin.

The landscape we saw on the drive was impressive. Driving on mainly flatlands bordered by high hills on either side. Fields had huge crop irrigation systems, like the ones in Norfolk around Thetford, but so much larger. In some places we could see for very long distances to mountain ranges far away.

On arriving in Dunedin, all the parking spaces were gone, kids were all walking in one direction towards the arena. We mad a bee line to the railway station to enquire about tickets on the local tourist train that takes you through a spectacular gorge.

Next to find a campsite. Yes, we could get in despite Ed, though all cabins were booked and only a few spaces available for small campers.

Rosemary saw the owner had a webcam feed running on the Albatross colony, so received yet some more advice for Tuesday when we hope to see Albatross and Penguins.

Wanaka and a treat for Hobbit fans, the Treble Cone – Mar 31

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Treble Cones, A Hobbit site

Slight drizzle this morning. We wanted to head of to find some Keas. The guy next to us suggested the Treble Cone ski area. The Rob Roy Glacier trail was apparently devoid of Kea.

We set off in the direction of the Treble Cone ski area, also a Hobbit film location. The page 113 of Hobbit Film Locations shows an excellent shot of the crags which you can see from the campsite. The picture also shows the area where our campsite is located.

Driving towards the ski area is on sealed roads in what looks like Glenco valley. Spectacular scenery. At the point where the sealed road ends, there is the turn off to the ski area. But the actual road was unfortunately closed. So, no driving up to the cones or seeing Keas.

We drove on then along the unsealed road towards the Rob Roy Glacier trail. The road is in a huge valley which is flank by fields on each side. Sheep and deer are reared here. The bird life was phenomenal, flocks of hundreds of Yellow Heads were in the fields or sitting on the road. They have the alarming habit of flying in front of the car, darting from side to side.

Several birds of prey were spotted, as were spur winged plovers. The other siting were the pairs of Paradise Ducks which live in the Southern Alps.

We continued but as the road deteriorated we came to a sign which suggested if you went on, and it rained you might not get back to where the sign was, near a ford. We (ie Rosemary) hesitated, I walked the ford (well looked it), dithered, then two more campers came by and dithered. I decided to go for it, despite the protestations of R. Made it through with a breeze. And the next ford. On we went and then met a man who said the next ford over the river was too deep and had already caught one car. We hesitated again and were caught up by one of the vehicles we’d seen hesitate at the first ford. They said they’d gone on, when they saw we’d made it ok.

As the rain had started again (closer to the mountain) we (aka R) decided to beat a hasty retreat.  Of course, as we drove nearer to Wanaka and away from the glacier, the weather improved. In Wanaka is was virtually cloudless. That’s mountain weather for you.

In Wanaka we parked for a latish lunch, Green lipped mussels and prawns in a coconut curry sauce. Yummy. Rosemary had a vegetable dish with pan-fried lamb slices. She thought they were a bit tough, which was good cos I got to clean up and I thought they were delicious.

Where we’d parked was a short distance away from the main parts of town. A path wound its way alongside the road. One side of the path was bordered with large square terracotta tiles. Very cleverly, seemingly as part of a Millennium project, the tiles recounted historic events. I think you could sponsor a tile. We ummed and ahhed over some of the content, but what a brilliant way to see history in a timeline.

A bit of a walk around the shops of Wanaka and then back to the campsite for wine and supper.  Quite a pleasant evening, the wind dropped off.

 

 

Haast to Lake Wanaka – Mar 30

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Haast Valley

Up and a slow getup to allow the Armistice convoy to get ahead of us. This was the Armistice 100
Easter Rally Convoy 2018 which took 20 days, starting in Rotorua, travelling down to Queenstown, and then back up to the North Island again.  It was organised by the New Zealand Military Club. Took a few pictures of several WWII army vehicles and motor bikes. The motor bike was suffering; I believe it left on a trailer in the end.

We headed towards the Haast Pass with a mixture of blue sky and clouds on the mountains, and some lower clouds caused by the sun warming and evaporating the moisture on the vegetation from the night’s rain. It made a pretty sight.

We stopped off at various sightseeing areas, Thundercreek Falls, then the Fantail Falls. The Fantail pull over was full of people so we nearly didn’t stop. Both good to view.

As an event, the Haast Pass was rather disappointing. We hardly noticed the summit of the pass, because the tall trees and growth on the side of the road made much of the theatre of the valley virtually invisible. (The next day driving on the dirt road to the Rob Roy Glacier trail was a much more awe inspiring drive.)

The drive alongside Lake Wanaka was spectacular, with wide open vistas.

We arrived at Wanaka, stopped at the supermarket for some food and headed over the Glendhu Bay campsite. We were surprised at the size of the site – huge. Being a Bank Holiday and therefore school holidays, it was teaming with people. The facilities are a bit tired, but we had a large pitch to ourselves looking straight out on to the lake.  Alas, the wind soon made us sit in the van.

During the night the wind really got up, I wonder how those tents perched on top of the long-wheel base Land Rover Discovery survived the night. (We didn’t see them again, so perhaps they did not survive.) It rained during the night, and was still drizzling slightly at 8.00. Sun was soon out.

Franz Josef and Fox Glaciers – Mar 29

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Franz Josef

A lovely quiet night in the DOC campsite, except for the whining of mosquitos and sandfly. A quick breakfast and back into town for our guided walk up to the glacier. There were two other couples and a loner, one couple from Phoenix Arizona, and the other couple from up North, and the lone female escaping the nerve agent in Salisbury. The benefit of the guided walk are the explanations of the flora, fauna, geology and history. The guide also takes you through areas which are generally cordoned off from others, so we had a lovely walk through NZ rain forest to start with, and then a demanding walk up through rugged rocks.

Unfortunately, the base of the glacier has been safely unreachable for many years now, waiting for the glacier to start to extend again in the wetter years. We made it to a viewing point where there was a good view of the glacier, the melt water and a waterfall in the distance. A cup of tea, and then back down again.

Back in Franz Josef we had a beer and then head on South. First crossed the temporary Baily bridge. Temporary; it’s been there since 1995!  A slight detour to see the Fox Glacier. Many of the walks to Glacier have been closed for the last couple of months because of a mudslide. Today they were hoping to reopen some of them. We just wanted to view the glacier from a distance and photograph it and a helicopter for a size comparison. Success.

On the road again, nice fast driving with slow vehicles pulling over to let you go by, except for the cretins driving Maui motorhomes who keep on and on regardless of the queue behind them. Yes, I am afraid it is always Maui!

We stopped at a very nice DOC campsite at Lake Paringa, but the boss wanted a shower, so on we went to Haast. The first Haast River Motels and Holiday Parks looked rather dire with no green (grass) parking, so on to Haast Lodge Backpackers and Motor Park. This was even more dire. So back to the first site and booked an unpowered site. We were directed to a rather nice green area to park on, complete with bench and table.

The convoy celebrating the anniversary of armistice were there too. We must find out when they intend to leave, otherwise we will be stuck behind them all the way over the pass.

 

Treetop Walk and Lake Mapaourika – Mar 28

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Treetop Walk

During the night there was a shower of rain, but the forecast held true and there was blue sky at dawn. While we were eating our meagre breakfast a BBQ man came around and offered me pork chops and bacon from his exuberant morning excesses.

We headed off South and soon came across the first of the WWII convoy being administered to by the AA.

Our first stop of the day was, as suggested by Nic & Kate, a Treetop Walk, where you walked on a number of platforms and walkways above the forest. This, I thought would be the chance to bag a few birds, so loaded the BIG lens. Of course you can guess, hardly a bird in sight. A few fantails were in evidence. Done those. Did snap a picture at a distance of a Bright Eye. Rosemary spied a couple of different orchids growing on some deadish tree tops.

We spent a good couple of hours on site, then back to the café for some bacon and eggs on ciabatta , while R had French Brioche toast with berries and bacon. Picked up a few brochures for the Franz Josef Glacier, some Helicopter trips and an Eco Walk. The Eco Walk won.

We headed on, stopping at Ross where we posted our postcards, after getting a description of what an NZ postbox look slike, the Goldfields were not attractive enough to keep us, though we took a brief look at their Gaol.

After lunch back on SH6 we came across the convoy at Harihari. They had stopped for a break and were being ushered back on to the road. We waited and then had 20 slow moving vehicles to overtake. Luckily the road was straight, and NZ has a limited number of vehicles.

We soon passed Lake Mapaourika where I planned to camp for the night. But continued on to Franz Josef to book our Eco Walk and buy a couple of bottles of wine. In the local bar, had a pint and a chat with a British couple from Reading who were B&Bing

At the campsite, flushing loos, we cooked our meal and the went to bed, hopeful the sand fly would not bite us too much.

Seal Colony at Tauranga Bay and Pancake Rocks – Mar 27

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Seals at Tauranga Bay

The rain started during the night, when we got up for breakfast it had stopped for a short while. We left the site just before 10, heading to Cape Foulwind and the lighthouse. We walked up to the lighthouse and back, photographed an obliging Weka. The rain still held off.

Drove on to the Seal Colony at Tauranga Bay. I was not really expecting to see any seals, but there they were and a whole crop of new ones which had already been tagged. Several hundred photographs later, we left.

The next stop was Mitchells Gully Gold mine, the rain was still managing to hold off. This Gold Mine showed a number of tunnels dug through the gold bearing sand. There was a water wheel which was used to crush the ore so that it could be treated with Mercury to extract the gold as an amalgam.

On one of the tracks a very obliging fantail stopped to have one, or more, photographs taken. It obliged by fanning its tail and generally looking very cute.

We continued South on SH6 stopping at the odd view point. We turned left up a dirt track called Bullock Creek Road. This was another Hobbit location where the cliffs were used as a backdrop to some of scenes. Not sure we got to the ones actually used as a nervous passenger was demanding that we should turn around on the narrow single-track road. Oh, and the rain started in earnest now.

Back on SH6 we continued to the Pancake Rocks. It was now raining cats, dogs & mice, ie biblical stuff. So straight into the restaurant for a wrap-lunch and coffee and then the tourist advice to buy some cards. Now it was a walk around the Pancake Rocks and Blowholes. We were totally drenched during the walk, camera, mobile, jeans. We sat in the car, air-conditioning and heating on hoping to dry; fat chance.

We continued on SH6 in the driving rain and wind, stopping at Greymouth. The intention originally was a DOC site on Lake Kaniere, but a site with no kitchen, shower, laundry and no where warm & dry to sit was not something we were looking for. Instead we went for the Top Ten at Greymouth, using the laundry and tumble dryer to dry our sodden clothes.

On the site was another convoy, this time celebrating the 100th anniversary of the 1918 armistice and driving a range of WWII vehicles. In the ‘Sky’ room they all watched “The Monument Men” a WWII film about the recovery of stolen art work. Their comments were all about the vehicles.

The next three days look good, so the glaciers and Haast pass should be photogenic.

Buller Gorge – Mar 26

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Robin

Slept in until almost 8 without waking. Up and showered, we ate a breakfast at Peter’s and said goodbye at 10.00. First stop was the Supermarket at Richmond where we bought supplies for two days, and an emergency supper for a third day. Deet was also on this list to protect us from the sand-fly. Also topped up the Vodaphone account so we could continue to make local phone calls.

We headed for Westport, but were anticipating camping earlier at the Lyell Camping ground. The weather was good and was anticipated to be good for the rest of the day. The drive through Upper Buller Gorge was quite spectacular. We stopped at the Lyell Camping Ground at a very early time and went for a walk across the small suspension beach and along the river gorge. There were some gorgeous (well so Rosemary said) mosses which I photographed for R. The birds kept out of view and didn’t appear until the end of the walk where a very obliging robin paused for his (?) portrait.

Another short walk took us down to the actual river, there were signs about the rules for fossicking. There is gold in these waters. Yes, we did see some shiny stuff, but was it gold?

Here we met the dreaded sand-fly, and I was itching all over my feet, hands and arms. Back at the van we spayed ourselves with Deet, horses and stable doors come to mind. So we stopped for a coffee at Inangahua where we were advised to rinse our hands with Detol hand wash, it stops the itching. I think it really does work.

At Carters Beach we stopped at the Top Ten Holiday Park for the night. It is a short walk to the very sandy beach which had a nice swell. Went for a swim. Had been put off by the people dressed in wet suits, but no, it was lovely and warm. As the sun set at 7.36 where was a gorgeous red glow across the sky looking towards Foulwind where the sun disappeared behind the cliffs.

Crossing over to the South Island – Mar 25

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Cook Strait

Today we leave the North Island for the South, and the weather is good for the crossing. We have the 8.00am Bluebridge ferry, so to make sure we get there on time the alarm is set for 6.00am They like you there an hour before sailing, though nothing happens until 20 minutes before boarding starts.

In the rush to get up on deck, I stupidly I left my camera in the van and the mobile phone battery died part way through the sailing, so few photographs. As soon as we were on board we stoked up with breakfast.  I had a breakfast panini of bacon and scrambled egg, while Rosemary went for toast & poached egg.

The trip was uneventful, strong wind on the foredeck, but once we reached Arapawa Island and entered the channel, the breeze eased off. We were one of the first to disembark and headed up Queen Charlotte Drive for the scenic and squiggly drive around Shakespeare Bay, Whenuanui Bay, Ngakuta Bay and Momorangi bay. At one of these bays we saw a guy flying a drone far out at sea taking pictures of a ketch sailing past.

We stopped at Havelock for lunch, cos it is said to be the capital of the Green Lipped Mussel industry. It would have been rude not to have sampled them, so I ate a platter of them with various flavourings at the Captain’s Daughter. Yummy; my favourite was with coconut & chilli. It was back in the Sleeper Van to get to Nelson, with one more stop at the Hobbit location of Pelorus Bridge.

Arrived at Peter and Nick’s house at 3.50 and moved our stuff into their sleep out, which they insisted we use. R spent quite a while stroking the residents cats & dogs. In fact she could not stroke a cat, without one of the dogs sticking their nose in & demanding to be petted.

Nelson was much bigger that we had anticipated, I think unless you are used to a map of a country, you can be deceived by the size of a town.

A couple of beers and then we were out for supper to celebrate Peter’s birthday, first a small bar with a fine selection of unusual beers. Betsy was our designated non-drinking driver & Kate joined us again from her flat in Nelson, having gone back home while we faffed around sorting ourselves out. We walked from the bar to Ford’s for supper. A vegan menu was offered to Kate but I had a very nice fillet of Snapper.

Back to Peter’s where I tasted a number of Tequilas, straight up. These are intended as sipping Tequilas.

And so to bed – with no van to dismantle in order to do it.

Last day in Wellington and North Island – Mar 24

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Wellington from Mount Voctoria

Today was supposedly a better way weather wise. Overnight the seaweed analysts must have changed their mind. Rain forecast for the afternoon, they seemed to miss the morning drizzle.

We had put it off waiting for clearer weather, now we had to take the plunge no matter what, we were going to the high places around Wellington for the views of the city. Despite the showers and clouds, the views were fairly clear, no sparkling blue sea, but variations of grey.

Our first stop was Mount Victoria Lookout, this has a view across the bay to Petone and the Hutts. Looking the other way you have a great view of the ferries, cruise liners and Te Papa. The Beehive is just visible hiding behind other buildings. Behind Wellington you can see the wind turbines.  Looking the other way from Wellington there is the airport and Miramar where the Weta studio is.

Down and up more wiggly steep lanes we headed over to Turbine Hill, as suggested by Rosemary’s friend KiWi Jono. This was a trial turbine to check the winds of Wellington for power generation, it was recently replaced in 2016 with a much larger beast, presumably marking a successful trial. Again good views of the bay from further afield, nice light effects from the sun and rain in the bay.

Decided to head over to the other side of the headland to Makara Beach, I hoped to be able to see South Island from the hills where the turbines were working. There was also a café at the beach where we might be able to get lunch. Well, we drove through valleys to get to the beach, so no views of South NZ. Instead we passed paddock after paddock for horses, and signs selling Horse Poo for a dollar. The houses were also remote and large. Makara Beach was a disappointment, lots of wreckage on the beach and the café was closed because of the cyclone which had caused devastation a few weeks ago. Poor Makara Beach residents.

We left and rove up to the nearby Wind Farm, called West Wind. Parked and walked along the headland and there was a view of South New Zealand. We would be travelling along that water tomorrow. We ate our cheese rolls and watch a whole lot of people turn up with 6 porta loos. Looks like some event was occurring there today or tomorrow. Must be athletic as it was being sponsored by a NZ energy drink firm.

We drove back through the Takarau Gorge Road, tight bends alongside a small river, very picturesque. This took us to Johnsonville, from where we headed home. We passed our site and drove on to Eastbourne, stopping at Day’s Bay Wharf where we had an ice cream, watched a fisherman land a large Snapper, and saw the passenger ferry leave the Wharf taking people between Wellington and Day’s Bay, and other locations.

Back at the campsite rain came and went. For half an hour, we actually sat out on our chairs in relative warmth.