Sunny day. Wandering back from the loo, R saw a Red Deer doe on the hillside opposite the entrance. She shared the sight with a fellow camper, but I wasn’t around. Down at Otter Lookout I spotted a seal basking on the rocks on the opposite side of the inlet. I sat there for a long time, hoping for otters, or the seal to go for a swim. Snapped a few birds flying by, black herons.
R and I walked further down the road, but it comes to a dead end. Yes, we went on the path, but that became blocked by a fence. I hiked up the hill, but the ground was very boggy and not nice walking on. Went back down. We walked back to site and down to Otter Lookout.
R saw an Eagle being mobbed by corvids above the trees. I was in the loo. Obviously it was her day for good wildlife spots.
After lunch we went for a walk down the other road, wanted to see the other end of the loch. This was rather disappointing as it disappeared into nothing. An inland loch which I though was connected, was connected only by a meter-diameter pipe, well above water level. I left R here as I walked on round to get a view of the campsite from across the loch.
Did stop at one place where there were at least three seals, maybe four basking in the rising tide. Sat here for a while, taking photos of them and others.
Walked on further, but not a lot to see unless I hiked miles.
Back at the campsite we had drinks, and supper outdoors. Smoked salmon, with pasta, pesto and mayonnaise. Lovely quick tasty supper. R had used the campsite’s washing machine.
Faded Ginger came and nuzzed around us, very friendly. Later saw the black cat on top of the roof of one of the accommodation buildings. Later still I heard him thudding around the roof of the loo block. I bet there are.quite a few rodents there.
Sitting outside was difficult, lots of little insects had been encouraged by the warmth of the day. Minute insects with striped bodies. Can’t be midge as they were not biting, but annoying. Sitting in a spot with a breeze helped mitigate their annoyance.
Packed away the van up leisurely and started our journey to the port at Berneray. We stopped at Clachan Sands Camping ground for a picnic lunch. There were a few motorhomes parked on the grass in front of the beach, plus a few tables, benches and a bin. We ate lunch here as there was no alternative. On Sundays everything appears closed. Shops, even cafes and restaurants. The only services in operation are the ferries.
Driving back to the main road, we passed the cemetery which R had coo-ed over as we went past it on our way to the beach. The whole of the ground around the graves was covered in primroses. So this time, I agreed to take a photo, but on her phone so we didn’t need to stop for long. Time & ferries wait for no man.
But, in the end, we made it to the ferry in plenty of time. It was moored at the other end of the causeway. Boarding time arrived, and the ferry came over to pick us up.
The trip to Leverburgh is very twisty, around rocks. Well-marked by buoys, at one stage I thought we were going the wrong side of a green buoy. Going out of the harbour the green on the left, red on the right. Going into the harbour, it’s the other way around. Green on the right, red on the left. At what point does the change occur on the crossing? A critical decision.
We disembarked and headed to Lickisto Black House camping. We chose the shortest route, which took us on the East coast. These were some of the narrowest roads with steep long drops on either side of the road. R was not happy. All the other vehicles departing the boat went around the west coast, where the road is wider, and there are many Harris parking spaces next to the sea. Thankfully, there were very few other vehicles on the road.
We made it to the site. It is kind of idyllic, especially for the hiking or biking camper. Small, secluded, imaginatively-named pitches next to no one, but a community shelter for cooking, reading, and getting warm. It also has secluded pre-erected tents; yurts are stretching it. It’s not ideal for vans, few spots and all together. No dirty water or chemical disposal (not that we need that) on site. We called this site, the Hobbit Campsite, partly because some of the building appeared to be buried into the ground, the windy paths, and the names of some of camping spots.
Extremely friendly cats came to inspect us and our unit. Black cat even had a good look inside. We appeared to pass muster. Faded Ginger just said hello and inspected the outside.
The guy who owns the place says there are otters, and that an eagle was seen yesterday. Of course, today there was nothing.
Today it looked promising, the sun was shining, and we could see the local radar station. So today we drove up to said radar station where you can get a view of the islands. There is a viewing site called the Saint Kilda viewing point. Yes St Kilda was in site, 40 plus miles away. Did some bird photography. There did seem to be a race up the hill by a couple of vehicles, who were definitely birders.
We were on a sculpture tour today. First stop was at Claddach Baleshare to view a ceramic-tiled bench, called Reflections. It marks the old crossing place to Baleshare before the causeway was built. Disturbed a couple who were there, eating lunch. They soon left.
Drove on to look at nearby Trinity Temple, Carnish. R was delighted to see yellow flags coming into flower. They explained all the huge leaves we’d been seeing.
R wanted a loo break, so we stopped at Langress Lodge for a coffee and cake. Could have had their brunch for a late lunch, but we had already eaten down a picnic by the bench. R loved the wallpaper in the cloakrooms.
We then drove a short distance, parked and took a delightful walk through a pine forest. It had been set up with displays of tiny doors & scenes for children. At the end of the walk, there was a wooden carving of Hercules the Grizzly Bear. He had escaped on the island during the filming of a commercial. The bear also featured in the James Bond film Octopussy and he’d met Margaret Thatcher. The latest cuckoo was in full voice, but we actually saw him this time, accompanied by a small bird.
We drove on to Lochmaddy to see a couple more sculptures on the sea front. Saw the ferry coming towards the port.
R wanted some bubbly, stopped at a shop in Lochmaddy, no alcohol on sale. We drove back to campsite, but saw another shop a few miles from the site, and fuel station. It did have alcohol, also bought a few days of provisions. The diesel price actually was not bad, a couple of pence more than Tesco in Oban.
Back at campsite it started to cloud over and there was a little rain in the late evening when we had packed up for the night.
Today we were to visit someone, who R follows on X, on the Island of Berneray. Eilidh owns a gift shop called the Coralbox.
On route to Berneray, we stopped at Traigh-stir where we had to open a gate to get down the road. Parked in the dunes and walked down to the beach. Could have been a nice spot on a sunny day, and an excellent spot for off grid camping.
A little way on, at Scolpaig Tower, we stopped to view this monument. A strange little tower standing on a small island in an inland loch.
Next stop just before crossing into Berneray, stopped at Dun an Sticir. Here there was a Prehistoric settlement. in a small loch, with rock pathways to get to the site. Also spent some time photographing the birds here. Managed a photo of a Dunlin and an Arctic Tern.
Next stop was at the Berneray Shop and Bistro. Stopping as in urgent need of a loo, so thought about a coffee. We ended up having an early and nice lunch there. Not only was this a café, it was also a small grocery store for the island. The weather was looking up in Berneray. There was much sun and warmth, many opted to sit outside the cafe, overlooking the sea.
Next stop was the Coralbox gift shop. This is at the harbour, quite small and some parking outside. R has been stalking the owner on X for the last few years, oohing and aahing at Eilidh’s photographs of atypical Hebridean beaches. I spotted Eilidh rushing up the hill from the house below to look after the shop. R bought some cards and T towels and discussed the shells Eilidh exhibited in her shop. R admitted to stalking.
We then drove to East Coast, lovely sand beach. I walked the whole beach and photographed some Sanderlings..
Next to the south of West Coast; the road was lovely unpotholed tarmac through the crofts. Small carpark at the end and a walk through the dunes to a huge beach. White sand for a couple of kilometres or more.
A couple of stops on the way back, first to the Ferry port at Berneray, where we would be leaving to continue on up North, and the Co-Op for some food and drink. As we drove near our campsite the weather became cloudy with low lying clouds. It had been like this all day here, while up in Berneray it had been lovely. (Though not very warm.)
Our camping pitch looked towards a cemetery. It was still in use, and a group of men came to cut it grass. Under the cemetery was some long grass and reed, the home of a Corncrake. The strip of bare earth between the cemetery and the campsite is part of the crofting system. I have no idea what was planted there, but it seemed home to a number of Mallards who steadily walked up and down the area.
Today started off cloudy with a stronger wind. Decided to take down the awning down. We went for a walked around the headland, turned out to be around 6 miles. No seals or otters were spotted. The first beach was covered with small shells. Not much bird life here, it was on the windward side of the headland.
Further out on the headland, the coast became more rugged and rocky.
Then around the windward side there appeared to be more birds. Even twitchers looking out to sea.
The sun on this walk did start to come out, then suddenly the weather clamped down looking like it might rain. It did not but it became quite misty.
At the campsite, we missed the snack bar, closed at 3.00 It had some interesting things on offer, black pudding and scallops. In the van we had tea, but wanted cake or biscuits with it, so I was dispatched to the automatic vending machines housed in their own special barn where some groceries could be bought. Shortbread, potatoes, prawns, black pudding.
Today was a far better day, the sun was shining, and it was time for us to move up to North Uist passing through Benbecula. We also stopped at many of the places we should have visited yesterday but hadn’t because of the shite weather. We left the campsite at 9.15 and headed North.
First stop was a little after 10, at Cladh Hallan, the site of a Bronze Age settlement, which had been excavated and mummies found. The sand dunes were covered with rabbits and their rabbit holes. Hundreds upon hundreds of holes. We continued walking down to the beach. Beach was huge, with white sand, but was covered in seaweed from recent winter storms. For this stop we parked by a yet another cemetery and walked down a track to the settlement.
Back to the main road for our 2nd stop at the Co-op to buy some lunch, but forgot to buy R any wine. (i’m fine with beer.)
Continuing up the main road our third stop was the Kildonan Museum just before 11.00. The museum was very good. We learnt about the clearances, and life in the Hebrides. How Celtic was the main language, with more influence from Ireland than Scotland.
Next we drove down a narrow track, a dirt road to the Kildonan Beach and parked on the edge of the beach. Here we saw seals basking on the on the rocks. A lone walker appeared from the south and headed inland.
After this visit we drove on North and stopped near a Youth Hostel. Here we looked at a ruined church, and derelict houses. The church and graveyard were fenced off and there were war graves here. In the carpark there were 4 VW vans all lined up. Very smart.
After here we headed to the East Coast where there had been a small port, now barricaded off. A lovely spot. Around here there were some ponies, there was also a field with black pigs. The silence of the inlet was broken by the incessant calling of a cuckoo with the added sound of its call echoing off the far cliffs. Finally, there was the noise of a motorboat. Forgiven because it made a picturesque wake. Driving back a quick stop at an RSPB site. Laziness meant we did not walk down to the lake. A Northern Wheatear was spotted.
We then crossed the sea on yet another causeway to the island of Benbecula. A rather flat island, at least on the route we drove around the West side to get to the North Uist.
Detour to the North Uist Distillery. The lady in the distillery was very helpful, we were able to taste their two gins, neat and with tonic, and were impressed by the flavours. I also sampled their Negroni. So we ended up buying a bottle of Downpour gin (aptly named). As we walked back to the van, I said I was disappointed at not being allowed a bottle of Negroni. So, R walked back to get one. R really liked the gins. The Negroni was a little smoother than the ones I make. I expect it contained classier Martini Rosso and Campari. They were in the process of building a whisky distillery. Should start distilling this year, so must visit again in four years’ time when they will have some young whisky on sale.
A little further North there was another whisky distillery about to open. There are few whisky distilleries in the Outer Hebrides, this appears to be changing.
Before we crossed into North Uist, we stopped at a MacLennans supermarket for more food, and a bottle of pink for Rosemary. I drove to the location fast as it was due to close at 5.00. On the route we had ambulance, police and fire brigade coming towards us. Must have been an accident on Benbecula, or even on South Uist.
Around the North of Benbecula, here there seemed to be a lot of habitation, industry, hospital, police and fire brigade services.
The roads are odd in the islands. Yes, there are many single track roads with passing places, but the large main route up the island is seemingly being improved to two-way roads. These though were short sections which would descend into the usual one lane roads with passing spaces. All with a 60mph speed limit, except in built up areas where it would descend to 40mph and occasionally 30mph
At a steadier pace we finally arrived a Balranald Campsite, set up our van for the next few days, It does have two shower and loo blocks, but quite small. It did seem very busy, and all the pitches were full. We watched a superb sunset at 9.47.
Today was a rainy day. Sat around in the van most of the day reading books.
We walked to the nearby gift shop, along the beach. Some slippery stones, and boggy patches. We did not enter the shop / shack. Felt if we did go in it would be mandatory to buy something.
We did walk up the road to the Polochar stone. Popped into the Polochar Inn, a hotel, expecting to participate in their advertised Brunch. Most of the beers were off. I had a bottle of beer, rather than risking what was on tap. There was no Brunch because of staff shortages. The woman serving us was away most of the time doing something else. The ‘Public Bar’ was rather 60s and drab. The ‘Lounge Bar’ was set as a dining room. Not a very good experince,
With the calmer seas this morning, the Great Northern Diver has reappeared. Manged a few pictures of it from our campsite pitch. When underwater the bird swims at a phenomenal rate. It is anyone’s guess as to where it will surface.
We packed up the van and left for the Calmac Ferry terminal at Ardmhor, to catch boat to Eriskay. It is a small ferry, no coffee, tea or shelter onboard, but nice cakes and coffee at the ferry terminal. When you arrive, you get directed to a line and wait to be boarded. The ferry arrives, and boarding is very fast. Despite the ferry being open, it does have WIFI. We soon set sail for the direct trip to the port on Eriskay
R reckoned she saw a seal out to sea. I can’t confirm from my mobile phone picture, even with the great picture quality of a Google Pixel 7 Pro.
On arrival at Eriskay, we drove a few hundred meters up the road and parked up beside the beach. We walked along the beach, looking for shells, but big disappointment they were all broken up. But the beach starred in one of the Peter May Blackhouse trilogy books that R was reading.
There is a memorial on the coast, celebrating 250 years since the landing of Bonnie Prince Charlie. This bay is called Prince Charles Bay, he landed here escaping from the Sassenachs.
A farmer was moving some sheep around near the memorial and asked some walkers to keep their dogs on a lead. Soon the sheep were bounding around the steep grass slope being herded by the farmer’s sheep dogs.
We continued our walk to the end of the beach and around the headland. I bade goodbye to R, who continued the walk to the pub. I raced back to the van and drove round to the pub in the hope of getting there first. Didn’t, unfortunately. The pub was called Am Politician, after the boat which ran aground with cases of whisky made famous by the film Whisky Galore. We stayed for lunch. Later, R read that there should have been a couple of bottles from the shipwreck on display, but, if there were, we missed them.
After lunch we crossed the causeway to the island of South Uist and drove the short distance to Kilbride Campsite. It is a well laid out, with a cafe on site. as well as laundry machines, which R made use of. The rain has started as we sit in the dry under the canopy drinking our G&Ts.
Today the sea was rougher than previous days. Our Great Northern Diver as nowhere to be seen. Rain was forecast for late afternoon, so we set off for a morning and early afternoon walk into the interior, where we were surrounded by peaks, some of which were over 300 meters high. The Irish lad, staying at the campsite said he had seen Eagle flying there. This was supposed to be an area for Eagles. We walked into the hills but saw no Eagles. Instead, I photographed a bird at the other end of the size scale, a Eurasian Wren (Hebridean), building a nest in the bank.
Lapwings appeared to follow us around squawking.
After enough walking we turned around and headed back to home, to watch the waves crash into the rocks out to sea. Not much wind, but plenty of surf.
Well, we missed the Aurora Borealis last night. We woke up se to masses of tweets and facebook postings of pictures of the Aurora from around the world, including some from our kind neighbours at home. This evening, we stayed up late, and set the alarm for midnight, but saw no sign of the Aurora. Up North in the Summer, it never gets properly dark, and is not a good place for observing the stars and the Aurora Borealis. A different matter in the winter when it is dark for most of the day.
Today we headed to the island of Vatersay, across the Causeway on the Southern side of Barra. The causeway caused R great concern. She was sure it would be underwater, salty and rust the car. She was surprised to see such a well-built high crossing. There are many of these causeways connecting the smaller islands together to the larger islands.
The roads on Vatersay were even narrower than the single track with passing spaces ones in Barra!
We headed to Bagh A’Deas, and parked near some houses. As we left the van, we could hear a Corncrake calling. This one did not know the rules about remaining hidden, there it was in the long grass moving around. We then walked across the Machair to the beaches. The Machair was incredibly beautiful, short grass which was covered in flowers. The flowers varied depending on where you were. Here it was daisy. Lots of cows and their calves were grazing on the daisy covered grasslands. The beach was yet again devoid of shells, other than small limpets. Good views of Sandray, and various other smaller islands.
On the walk back to the car we were accompanied by a flock of Lapwings, they did not like our presence and herded us across the Machair. Maybe they were protecting their nesting area, but to be accompanied for near 800 meters seemed excessive.
Back to the center of the island we stopped at the community café for a coffee, and cheesy chips. Here we walked down to Traigh a Bhaigh Beach and the Traigh Shiar Beach. Didn’t actually walk down to the latter, but viewed it from the side. There was a man rebuilding the wooden steps down to the beach.
Next stop was the Catalina Memorial, where the wreckage of a Catalina plane still lies, from its crash in 1944, leaving 3 dead but, thankfully, several survivors.
Final stop was on a beach looking towards Castlebay. Here there were two groups of people on the beach. One group were swimming in the sea. It was an idyllic spot, no wind and very warm. Yes we could strip off to our t-shirts.
We did not stop at the next view, as suggested by a photographer’s book I had bought. It was the gable end of a ruined house. We deemed it not very exciting.
Back on Barra, headed to the Co-op and bought supper and a bottle of gin from the distillery. The gin had a very distinctive flavour. Not sure whether we can grow into the taste. This set a precedent, and we later bought a bottle of Gin at any likely distillery on the islands.
Back at the campsite, the Great Northern Diver was there again. Diving down. It is amazing how fast it travels underwater.
Another camper on site has seen a Golden Eagle flying near a hill where we will be walking tomorrow.
In the evening, after such a lovely day, there were clouds, so limited chance to see the Northern lights. It did clear up a bit, but no sign at 11. 30. Set alarm for another hour, and still nothing at 12.30
