Today, the day started off OK, though rain there was promised for later. We were going to the Arctic Convoy Museum, and looking aroun Loch Ewe. First we took advantage of the roadside café up the road, and had a breakfast pie, while R had a savoury flapjack.
We set off in the van to go up the road to the The Russian Arctic Convoy Museum. Here we talked with one of the curators and were shown the convoys HMS Vindex was involved in. Rosemary left details of her father and promised to send on further information.
We headed back in the other direction, looked at the viewpoint overlooking the lock and the NATO refuelling station. We had noticed it before, and Steve assumed it was for tankers to pump up fuel for distribution in the area. Nope, it was NATO.
The whole area is either a yellow drone area, ie ask for permission, or red over, especially over the fuel depot, no drones.
We then went to the Southern headland where there are many concrete lookouts and gun emplacements. Took some photos
Next it was to Garelock, where we had coffee in a very radical, left-wing coffee shop. A very interesting selection of books on sale.
Visited the dock, but why is it you cannot ever buy fish?
Back to the campsite, and the rain came in a little harder. Cleared up for the evening, but not enough for a sunset image from the beach. Some lovely shots of birds on the shore though
Sleepless night waiting for the alarm, but when it did ring, I could not stop it quickly. Van packed quickly and we were away well before 6:30
Into the queue for the boat loading, and soon on board. Seemed quite a new boat, and the biggest we had been on this holiday amongst the islands. It even had a second layer on one side of the vehicle bay for cars.
Smooth trip across. Wish I had not eaten the Cornish Pasty for breakfast, everyone else was tucking into a Scottish Breakfast. The black pudding looked scrumptious, though I did hear they had cut corners on the beans, not Heinz.
The trip was 160 minutes and smooth. A pleasant view from the front viewing lounge. Whenever I went up on deck, I had to use the stairs that also go down to the car deck, the noise from all the car alarms going off is a real racket.
When we arrived at Ullapool what struck most was trees & green – green grass, green trees etc etc.
Unloaded and straight to Tesco. An exceedingly small one, but we did alright buying wine and Campari which was on offer. Had to do a big Tesco shop.
Now it was the drive to Poolewe and the Camping and Caravan Club site. I told Google to stop at various places along the route, some were viewing spots along the road. One though was a Gorge. The Corrieshalloch Gorge, run by the National Trust of Scotland. It has various waterfalls down the canyon, and a suspension bridge for pedestrians where you can a good view of the gorge and a waterfall. There is also a viewing platform further on to view the suspension bridge. A rain forest. Certainly, masses of moss. All very impressive. The NT carpark and buildings there opened this year. You can buy a coffee and cakes there.
A few more stops, and we made it to the campsite. Checked in and walked into Poolewe. A shop, which we may or may not use, and a small art café. All closed today or because of the time.
Had a quick look around the graveyard, sat on the bench, like two old people, looking over the loch, and attempted to photo the sunset. Today we had all kinds of weather, sun, rain and boring cloud. The sunset was photographed in the rain.
Looking forward to breakfast tomorrow. There is a roadside shack on the Northern end of the campsite. They do good coffee apparently and have breakfast pies. Never had a breakfast pie before. The place has all 5* reviews in Google, over 60 of them. Nothing less than 5*. I have never seen that before.
Day started dry. Hurrah. Actually, became a very nice day with mainly sun. Though we did get caught out during lunch when it became foggy with some low flying cloud.
We started off looking for the Stac a’Phris. Parked in the nearest car park at Dailbeag beach, didn’t realise it was a long walk to get to Stac a’Phris. Suddenly realized this was not happening, a brand-new fence across the fields stopped any progress. The map at the car park showed we had been on the correct route. Some wire cutters are required for this walk. I thought in Scotland you had the right to roam.
The beach and rocks were stunning, so I photographed them.
Disappointed, we drove on North and stopped to look at the show Black House at Arnol. Very quaint. It even had a peat fired fire on the centre with a kettle. Needless to say, it was very smokey in the room. Love the beds with their curtains around them.
There was also a white house nearby. After the land reforms, the crofters could invest in better homes. Still, they had no damp proof courses, but at least the livestock did not sleep in the same building. Single story. The house contained the cattle, in one section, and the family in the other section. Fire in the middle of the room. Some houses had a third room for storage.
The white house, these were more modern house and replaced the black house when crofters were allowed to live and stay on the land without being turfed out at the whim of the landowner.
The Black House was inundated with starlings who did not like us, so shrieked and squawked. They were bringing in food for their nestlings. Some lived in the chimney of the black house, and others in the crannies of the stone walls. What a din.
Still heading North, we stopped at the Clach An Truishal Standing Stone. At 20ft, four times R’s Rosemary height. Met a couple who were completing the Hebridian Way on bicycles. Seemed they were friends. They were doing it with a car and a van, and two bikes. Driving to the destination in both vehicles, piggybacking the route. Driving back and picking up the other vehicle. They said they were doing a lot of driving.
On northwards for lunch at the The Breakwater in Barr a’ Yard, Port of Ness, Isle of Lewis HS2 0XA.
Here the cloud and mist came in for a while, we thought this was the end of the day. Had a can of Iron Bru, well I am in Scotland.
Next on up to the Butt of Lewis Lighthouse. Brick built lighthouse. Lots of Gannets and Fulmars with the odd shag.
Drove back home, filling up with diesel. We had done over 520 miles on the islands. Navigation error on sat nav, had us going on a 20 mile detour, Why does google maps not do U-turns.??.
At campsite, lovely meal, and our Welsh neighbours with the 1940s bike were proficient in German and conversed with the German campers about bikes. Apparently our Welsh neighbour he was a real Auf Wiedersehen, Pet, and had worked in the building industry in Germany for eight years
We packed aways as many items as we could for a fast getaway early in the morning. We had to be checked in at the ferry before 7.15, so needed to leave at 6.30, giving us 15 minutes lee way. So alarm set for 5 minutes to 6 to do the final dismantle and quiet pack away.
The day started with a mist/fog and looked really miserable. Anyway, we set off to Stornoway, because we had not visited Lews Castle. There was a museum there, which has six of the original Lewis chess pieces. The drive across the island was in fog, with lights on. As we drove East the weather did clear up, so I was able to turn off the lights. Parked in the grounds of the castle and entered the reception. The castle rooms were not open, a wedding today. The café and museum were open.
We looked around the museum, small but interesting. The chess pieces were guarded by a very talkative Hebridean custodian. He was difficult to stop, and of course Stephen asked about the relationship with the British Museum, and how long they had the 6 chess pieces for. (Good, and on permanent loan.) The six pieces where the King, Queen, Bishop, Knight, Warder and Pawn. Warders are foot soldiers in the King’s army. They are his personal armed guard and part of his royal household. The most ferocious Warders are known as Berserkers because they bite their shields to get themselves ready for battle. The pawn in the Lewis chess set is the only chess pieces that doesn’t look human.
There were other exhibits including the computer which used to run the payroll for the council in the 60s. We ate an early soup lunch in the restaurant, and another talkative employee regaled us about the London 5* chef that ran the kitchens. I presume they did posh food for events and weddings as was happening today. A bowl of soup does not need a 5* chef.
We took a walk around the gardens, rather disappointing, not up to the standard of the museum, or café.
Next, we drove East to view the Aiginis Farm Raiders’ Monument, and the St Columba’s Church (Eaglais na h-Aoidhe) church. They were next door to each other. The church was roofless and derelict but had a waterproof wooden building inside protection the tomb stones.
Drove on to Timpan Head, where there is a lighthouse. Automatic now, so the lighthouse keepers’ dwellings were now a home and dog kennels. Some nice cliffs here and sea birds were flying, nesting in the cliffs
Now drove back to the campsite, stopping at the The Shieling Barvas and Brue. A shepherd’s hut, where they slept while tending the sheep and cattle. R though the shieling was really very cute.
Back to the campsite, a slight precipitation, but not too bad. Running out of food.
Not a nice night, the wind blew, there were bangs and cracks throughout the night. The weather guess for today is also rain. So we decided to keep the sightseeing to a built-up area, hence we headed over to Stornoway, a thirty minute drive to a free carpark down on the docks near the ferry terminal. The drive across the island was on a straight road, but the land was very barren and inhospitable on either side of the road.
We found the carpark, and as luck would have it, it was in the area of Stornoway with shops and restaurants. Not many though.
The car park was pretty full, there seemed to be a number of vehicles driving around. Eventually they settled on the charging bays and ICEd them. We had no such problem.
A meander around the town, eyeing up the restaurants, while we homed in on the bookshops and charity shops. Rosemary came away with a jacket in the hope she will be warmer tomorrow. Yes, she will, it will be 4 degrees warmer tomorrow.
We also visited a newsagent, where I took a photograph of the newsstand. The Tories had announced a general election, some not very sympathetic headlines, such as ‘Drown & Out‘ and ‘Gone on the Fourth of July‘
Took some snaps of the art pieces on the quay celebrating the herring girls. We have Herring Girls too in Great Yarmouth on the East coast of England.
After the meandering, we homed in on a restaurant for lunch. The first, a 4.6 rated one, we rejected, as it looked too pretentious and austere, choosing the 4.7 called Stornoway Distillers @ The Fank. We had spied it already. Yes, this restaurant also does gin. Unpretentious because you could just eat a sandwich. Both of us started with soup of the day, very good, filling and thick. R for her main had the Ember Roasted Beetroot with Whipped Goats Cheese, Scottish Raspberry, Hot Honey. I was a little more extravagant and ate North Uist Half Shell Scallops with Seaweed Butter, Dill Oil, Kelp Vinegar, Samphire. Both of us were v happy with our yummy food. Of course, it would be rude not to end with a pud, so I had a chocolate brownie, while R had a rhubarb and custard blondie which she voted the best ever.
R had a glass of white, while I had a Scottish craft ale stout from the Black Isle. Yes, its origins were a long way from Stornoway. Oh and R had a G&T with the cafe’s new gin enterprise, started just this month. Called Landfall gin, first bottles went on sale on the 14th May. She wasn’t that keen, so we did not come away with a bottle. I quite liked the taste, it lingered for a while, and when you breathed out through your nose there was a definite spicy scent.
Weather still rubbish, so we headed to go to Tesco in the van to buy food. Then we went to see the Iolaire Memorial, a monument to men who died in a shipwreck repatriating those who had fought in the The Great War. More than 250 died, 78 survived due to the determination of one man who swam to shore with a rope, see https://www.nrscotland.gov.uk/research/learning/first-world-war/the-iolaire-disaster-1919. The memorial had been opened by the then Prince Charles. R had very recently read about it in a book by Peter May, part of the Blackhouse trilogy.
Walking back it was wet, cold and icy, so we decided to drive straight back to the campsite. We are sitting in the van now, snug with the electric fan heater on, and glasses in our hands. Rain has now stopped, and the wind may be getting less. Tomorrow will be warmer.
Packed the van and left well before 10 am. Weather was windy and cold, looked nothing like the previous day. Back all along the single lane road. Thankfully, there little traffic coming towards us, except for a dustcart with a revolving body to crush the waste. Passed again through the grounds of mansion-type house. How can you live in a mansion with gates, and have cars pass between the house and your lawn, within a couple of meters of your home?
We joined the main road and headed on up North, retracing some of the route we had taken the previous day. We were heading initially to the Calanais standing stones. The drive was long, I didn’t realise how large this island is. The roads were good, but a tad dangerous, we saw some great examples of dangerous overtaking. We also came across cyclists on an incline on a sharp corner two abreast. Some heavy breaking required.
We made the trip ended up at the standing stones of Calanais 1. There were a great array of stones, and a visitor centre. The visitor centre is at the start of a two-year revamp which meant the café was already closed, and the shop and museum were going to close in June, all moving to temporary accommodation. The whole place is being enlarged, and we were told to come back in three years to see the final product.
After ‘1’ we did visit ‘2’, ‘3’ and ‘4’ there are some others. ‘2’, and ‘3’ are in walking distance, but we drove.
We then headed on up the West to Bosta, where there is a very interesting Iron Age House, complete with a well-informed guide, on the island of Great Bernera. All on single track roads. Going back we stopped at the bridges. Tw0 bridges side by side. The old, now pedestrian only. The new bridge, a steel one, started construction in 2020, finished in 2021. This is where the Calanais 8 circle was. While I was photographing that, R had spied an albino seal. We then went past Calanais 1 stones again, thead up to our new campsite. Quite a nice site, seems to have good facilities, but is rather windy at present. Across the hedge to us, was a football pitch, and the entry to the campsite was past a school. There was some sport when we were there, though no balls came flying over the hedge.
A large white van parked next to us, and put up a large tent which we later realised was for his vintage motorbike. He pitched over our pitch, not an issue to us as there was plenty of space. The site owner had told him as he had told us, to park in the middle of the pitch, so there was no alternative but to place the tent over into our pitch. Site owner came around the next day and told him to move off our pitch, also he then charged the bike owner for pitching the awning.
Fried bacon butties for supper.
Before bed, we put the roof down because of the wind. Had the fan heater running to keep us warm.
Today we left the rather hippy, but genuinely nice and laid-back campsite of Lickisto, driving North to Harris. Started off on the narrow roads, but then we joined the main two-lane road, positively a motorway!, which goes around the West Coast. Soon we were into North Harris at the town of Tarbert. Here we stopped off at the Harris distillery an picked up another bottle of Gin. Tastings did not seem to be high on the agenda. Very upmarket place compared with the previous distilleries. They did do tours and sold lots of merch. But looked like prebooking was required, and the car park was full. Most expensive gin on the trip at £44.
Then a stop at a small shop to buy some food for the next couple of days, until we get to the Tesco at Stornoway.
From here we drove to our ‘free’ camping spot for the night. Aiming to get there earlyish so we could get a spot. Sat nav, or rather my settings got me wrong. No voice coming out of the vehicle’s speakers. We sped on past the turn of to Huisinis by 10 miles. Then I saw sat nave telling me to turn off, missed the turn, and got the next. It took me down a very narrow road, and back onto the main road in the other direction. Google hates doing u-turns, instead it will drive you down other roads to get you back on track. (R says its lack of u-turns means it must be designed by men.) Looks like this was the old single-track road from the South of Lewis to the North of Lewis. Every now and again the remains of the old road would appear.
We followed a Polestar! Rather useful because I could see its brake lights when it had to pull in for on-coming cars. When the car turned off to park, I drove up next to them and had a quick chat with the owners.
Anyway 10 miles later, all the way up and down 100 meters in height, we were back on-track, then off on the toad to Huisinis Gateway & the carpark. Yes a very narrow single-track road. R hates these, I love and enjoy them. Later R saw a woman who was totally shell-shocked after driving down to the carpark. She claimed having driven there, the carpark owners should be paying her to park
When we arrived, and the place was chocka, but there was one space. I commented “free camping”. Not free camping; £5 a day time charge for campers, free for cars. Then a £20 overnight charge from 6pm to 10am. Turns out I should have arrived after 6pm when there was plenty of space. There are showers available between 8am and 8pm at £1 for 3 minutes. Plenty of time in my book. A loo is available all night.
The weather & beach were fabulous. We went for a walk around the headland where we met a chap who’d had an accident with his inflatable paddleboard. It had exploded in the sunshine when he’d taken it out of the water for a lunch time stop.I went on for a longer walk and even went for a swim, followed by a hot shower. After supper I went out for a walk to take sunset pictures. Alas some clouds were coming in, and there was a headland that got in the way, but some very obliging Highland cattle posed.
Back at the van at 10.10pm. Next to us was a Defender type LandRover with a sticker saying “Adventure before Dementia” which R found a tad depressing. Very smart vehicle, with an extremely smart steering wheel.
We went to sleep, with more wind, followed by some rain during the night.
Sunny day. Wandering back from the loo, R saw a Red Deer doe on the hillside opposite the entrance. She shared the sight with a fellow camper, but I wasn’t around. Down at Otter Lookout I spotted a seal basking on the rocks on the opposite side of the inlet. I sat there for a long time, hoping for otters, or the seal to go for a swim. Snapped a few birds flying by, black herons.
R and I walked further down the road, but it comes to a dead end. Yes, we went on the path, but that became blocked by a fence. I hiked up the hill, but the ground was very boggy and not nice walking on. Went back down. We walked back to site and down to Otter Lookout.
R saw an Eagle being mobbed by corvids above the trees. I was in the loo. Obviously it was her day for good wildlife spots.
After lunch we went for a walk down the other road, wanted to see the other end of the loch. This was rather disappointing as it disappeared into nothing. An inland loch which I though was connected, was connected only by a meter-diameter pipe, well above water level. I left R here as I walked on round to get a view of the campsite from across the loch.
Did stop at one place where there were at least three seals, maybe four basking in the rising tide. Sat here for a while, taking photos of them and others.
Walked on further, but not a lot to see unless I hiked miles.
Back at the campsite we had drinks, and supper outdoors. Smoked salmon, with pasta, pesto and mayonnaise. Lovely quick tasty supper. R had used the campsite’s washing machine.
Faded Ginger came and nuzzed around us, very friendly. Later saw the black cat on top of the roof of one of the accommodation buildings. Later still I heard him thudding around the roof of the loo block. I bet there are.quite a few rodents there.
Sitting outside was difficult, lots of little insects had been encouraged by the warmth of the day. Minute insects with striped bodies. Can’t be midge as they were not biting, but annoying. Sitting in a spot with a breeze helped mitigate their annoyance.
Packed away the van up leisurely and started our journey to the port at Berneray. We stopped at Clachan Sands Camping ground for a picnic lunch. There were a few motorhomes parked on the grass in front of the beach, plus a few tables, benches and a bin. We ate lunch here as there was no alternative. On Sundays everything appears closed. Shops, even cafes and restaurants. The only services in operation are the ferries.
Driving back to the main road, we passed the cemetery which R had coo-ed over as we went past it on our way to the beach. The whole of the ground around the graves was covered in primroses. So this time, I agreed to take a photo, but on her phone so we didn’t need to stop for long. Time & ferries wait for no man.
But, in the end, we made it to the ferry in plenty of time. It was moored at the other end of the causeway. Boarding time arrived, and the ferry came over to pick us up.
The trip to Leverburgh is very twisty, around rocks. Well-marked by buoys, at one stage I thought we were going the wrong side of a green buoy. Going out of the harbour the green on the left, red on the right. Going into the harbour, it’s the other way around. Green on the right, red on the left. At what point does the change occur on the crossing? A critical decision.
We disembarked and headed to Lickisto Black House camping. We chose the shortest route, which took us on the East coast. These were some of the narrowest roads with steep long drops on either side of the road. R was not happy. All the other vehicles departing the boat went around the west coast, where the road is wider, and there are many Harris parking spaces next to the sea. Thankfully, there were very few other vehicles on the road.
We made it to the site. It is kind of idyllic, especially for the hiking or biking camper. Small, secluded, imaginatively-named pitches next to no one, but a community shelter for cooking, reading, and getting warm. It also has secluded pre-erected tents; yurts are stretching it. It’s not ideal for vans, few spots and all together. No dirty water or chemical disposal (not that we need that) on site. We called this site, the Hobbit Campsite, partly because some of the building appeared to be buried into the ground, the windy paths, and the names of some of camping spots.
Extremely friendly cats came to inspect us and our unit. Black cat even had a good look inside. We appeared to pass muster. Faded Ginger just said hello and inspected the outside.
The guy who owns the place says there are otters, and that an eagle was seen yesterday. Of course, today there was nothing.
Today it looked promising, the sun was shining, and we could see the local radar station. So today we drove up to said radar station where you can get a view of the islands. There is a viewing site called the Saint Kilda viewing point. Yes St Kilda was in site, 40 plus miles away. Did some bird photography. There did seem to be a race up the hill by a couple of vehicles, who were definitely birders.
We were on a sculpture tour today. First stop was at Claddach Baleshare to view a ceramic-tiled bench, called Reflections. It marks the old crossing place to Baleshare before the causeway was built. Disturbed a couple who were there, eating lunch. They soon left.
Drove on to look at nearby Trinity Temple, Carnish. R was delighted to see yellow flags coming into flower. They explained all the huge leaves we’d been seeing.
R wanted a loo break, so we stopped at Langress Lodge for a coffee and cake. Could have had their brunch for a late lunch, but we had already eaten down a picnic by the bench. R loved the wallpaper in the cloakrooms.
We then drove a short distance, parked and took a delightful walk through a pine forest. It had been set up with displays of tiny doors & scenes for children. At the end of the walk, there was a wooden carving of Hercules the Grizzly Bear. He had escaped on the island during the filming of a commercial. The bear also featured in the James Bond film Octopussy and he’d met Margaret Thatcher. The latest cuckoo was in full voice, but we actually saw him this time, accompanied by a small bird.
We drove on to Lochmaddy to see a couple more sculptures on the sea front. Saw the ferry coming towards the port.
R wanted some bubbly, stopped at a shop in Lochmaddy, no alcohol on sale. We drove back to campsite, but saw another shop a few miles from the site, and fuel station. It did have alcohol, also bought a few days of provisions. The diesel price actually was not bad, a couple of pence more than Tesco in Oban.
Back at campsite it started to cloud over and there was a little rain in the late evening when we had packed up for the night.
