I am not one of those who queue up at the Glastonbury gates overnight, waiting to be let into the area at 8.00 am Wednesday morning. I can understand those who do, it is the only way to get the best camping spots and to be camped with your mates. I have upgraded to the soft Glamping experience and stay at The Love Fields This year I and two university friends made it to Glastonbury. For Ravi he was ticking of a bucket list item, and for Simon, well he is a musician, and all musicians should visit Glastonbury even if it’s not to perform. For me, it was my eleventh Glastonbury, the 9th in a row.
We set off from here early haveing been forcibly ejected by Rosemary, stopping on the way for a coffee and cakes at the Folly Row Cafe in Kington Saint Michael. After our coffee and loo break, we headed on to Glastonbury, taking the blue route which takes you along Pylle Lane. Very few holdups on the way. Drove into Love Fields and we were soon checked in and had emptied our belongings into the yurts. Simon and Ravi had two double beds while I had the one.
Our next step was to enter the festival site with our hospitality tickets from Love Fields and make our way over to the hospitality area behind the Pyramid Stage. Here we were issued with wrist bands. The hospitality area does allow you a greater chance of seeing some celebrities close up, and also allows you to get between the Other and Pyramid Stages a little faster. It is also an oasis from the outside crowds and a place to meet up.
Our next agenda item was a grand tour of the Glastonbury site, we headed to the Other Stage, then to Silver Hayes and way over to the west side of the campsite, I hadn’t been to the far west side campsites for years, this is where I used to camp. A walk up to the Park Area above the Ribbon Tower and then past the tepees and the new Glastonbury on Sea pier, not yet open. Supper at the West Holts Stage, tour of Avalon and then tried to get into the South East corner. But this was still under construction and was not due to open until Thursday.
Back at Love Fields we stopped at the bar for some drinks and listened to an array of bands who were playing. Unfortunately there was a strong wind which put us in a wind tunnel so we had to wrap up with blankets. The evening progressed with more ciders and some flat-breads with spicy toppings. At around 10.30 the bonfires on the festival site were lit and the firework display began. The Festival was now officially open.
Set off at 12.30 and arrived in a multi-storey car park in Twickenham at 14.00. The car park appeared to be heaving. I thought I would be there in plenty of time and miss all the crowds. After lunch and a long time before the show starts, there should be space. Didn’t quite work out that way, there were masses of fans already in the streets. Parking was crazy, cars driving round and round the car park looking for space. Struck lucky, a woman had arrived at her car with her Waitrose shopping. Grabbed the spot.
Walking to the arena there were crowds of Metalheads walking in the opposite direction. Had to check google maps to see I was heading the correct way. I think these fans had arrived by train and were heading into the centre of Twickenham for a pre-festival drink.
The walk to the stadium was 15 minutes and I arrived in time to check in for my free poster, T-shirt, beer and buffet lunch. There was also a Metallica exhibition and museum containing mementoes from their tours and the original handwritten pages with lyrics of their old songs. The buffet lunch was excellent with shredded pork and beef, vegetables and other accompaniments. Whilst there I spoke with another fan, he was Norwegian and had lived here for seven years. He had seen the same Metallica show recently in Norway. ((Slightly bemused (irate?) R says at the price I paid, I cannot call anything “free”.)
Time to get out on to the pitch. We had a 15-minute start on general entry. I did dither a bit, and when I entered the arena, (you were led through the back stage area by security staff), I saw there were people already on the crowd barriers. The Gold Circle is huge, so if you were late in you could still be miles from the front. In any case, I had only a couple of people in front of me, which ended up as one when Metallica came on.
There were a couple of support bands. Opening proceedings was Lars Ulrich’s favourite new band, Norwegian stoner punk trioBokassa. Then on came the Swedish metallers Ghost.
The sound in the arena was poor, huge echoes everywhere. Whenever the band members spoke, it was nearly impossible to hear what they said, their voice being drowned out by the arena echoes. This was even at the front where we were near to the speakers. What it was like for the rest, I have no idea. Thankfully when music was being played was not noticeable.
Then on came Metallica at about 20.00, and they played until about 22.30. An excellent set. Some issues with the screens, their video screens let the background light through, and until it was dark there were poor images on the huge backgrounds. They used the stage to the maximum, moving out to the wings and up to the front. Lars, though remained hidden, because I was so close to the over 2-metre high stage and he was at the back of the stage. Even this was circumvented by him playing a set of drums which had magically appeared on the runway out at the front of the stage. So pictures of Lars were taken, but all from behind.
After finishing their final song, Enter the Sandman, they did their usual thank you and threw their plectrums and drum sticks into the crowds. So many plectrums, such that I was able to go away with one. Happy days!
Left the stadium, slow progress getting back to the car park with Whitton Road filled with people. Of course, the station platforms became full and this backed up onto the road. Thankfully the pedestrian management did allow me fast access to the car park. This is where it all now went wrong. Twenty minutes before I could pay for parking and another hour sitting in my car unable to move. Exit from the car park was slow, and of course, I was on the top floor, so all the floors underneath had to empty. When I did get out, the roads were empty except for the street where the car park was on. The traffic light lets four cars out onto the A305 at a time, and you then sat there watching no vehicles go by on the A305 for ages. Made it home just before 2.00am. The M25 was empty and no road works.
A quote from one of the music papers about Metallica crowds:
The security guys at Twickenham said the Metallica crowds were far easier and nicer to deal with than the Ascot crowds he was working with the previous day, confirming what we already knew – Metalheads are the best.
I think this sums up the culture of entitlement which pervades some of the events attended by the 1%.
Metallica playlist
Hardwired
The Memory Remains
Ride The Lightning
Harvester Of Sorrow
The Unforgiven
Here Comes Revenge
Moth Into Flame
Sad But True
No Leaf Clover followed by Kirk and Rob’s version of Killers
Left home for Download on Thursday 14.00 in Morrison. Uneventful trip, but I took notice of the driving instructions on the motorway which took me off at an earlier junction than I’d anticipated. This route went through loads of winding lanes. Think it would have been easier to go by the main route. Arrived at the RIP camping ground, which looked a bit on the full side. Seems most people had arrived on Wednesday. A little concerned about the state of the ground, and whether I would be able to get out on Monday. There had been reports of torrential rain, and some festival-goers were already giving up and going home. This had incited a Twitter spat where some of those who go to Glastonbury tweeted, I thought Metal fans were hard. The RIP field though was pretty green, except for the areas around the loos, showers and food stalls.
After checking in and parking, I went into the Park Farmhouse complex where there was a good real ale bar, food and bands playing. Listened to a two-person tribute band, who when I arrived were playing some Metallica. Had several pints, and ate supper there. Then discovered the bar had closed. I think they had run out of real ales. Sad, I went back to the campervan and read a book.
Friday Def Leppard or Rob Zombie
Friday is a late start for the music, so no rush in the morning. Started the day off with a shower, and then a breakfast of bacon and hash browns in a roll. Went through to the VIP area and ordered a cappuccino and a sticky nut oatcake.
Last In Line
First band the main stage, played for 30 minutes, my thoughts were a boring rock band.
Tesla
Sacremento based rockers, quite an enjoyable band. Rained during their show, not heavily.
Blackberry Smoke
Atlanta based quintet formed in 2000.
Clutch
Southern rock, lots of grinding riffs, an enjoyable set. Short drizzle during their set.
Whitesnake
A British band, playing some good songs, a great drum solo from Tommy Aldridge. This band has been going since 1978 and has had around fifty band members.
Slash featuring Myles Kennedy and the Conspirators
Slash was his usual self, playing away on the side of the stage.
Rob Zombie
It was a question of watching Def Leppard, who I have seen live before or watching something different, so I went to the Zippo stage to watch Rob Zombie. The Zippo stage was crowded and I was way at the back. Not a good choice.
So during the day it did rain a little, normally short, light showers. The arena was green on entry, but turned into mud during the day. Not like Glastonbury mud. By the end of the day I felt the ground was drier than the start. The bars were virtually inaccessible, with huge queues. I hate queues and ended up drinking coffee.
Saturday and Slipknot
The day started sunny, and it was definitely drier underfoot. Changed my allegiance for breakfast to another food vendor, this one did a lovely fried egg and bacon roll, with filter coffee. Then more coffee and oatcake in the VIP place. While I was waiting for this second coffee I overheard some kiwis talking about Brits in NZ who don’t use sunscreen. So I said hi, I had been to NZ and it just rained all the time. During a conversation about the merits of the North and South Islands, they mentioned that the first band on the main stage was a New Zealand band.
Alien Weaponry
A young trio performing some very heavy metal. Many of the lyrics and chants were in Māori also known as te reo. They are on a North American and European tour and have an album called Tū. Well worth listening to.
Royal Republic
The unlikely looking band, well dressed, chatty humourous lead singer. All wearing red jackets accessorised with a pearl necklace. At the end, they played some Metallica.
Powertrip
Dallas Texas band, complete with shouting and lots of fist punching. Their slogan was ‘ Powerful people, we must fight them’
Behemoth
European band, anti-Christ. Kept going off and coming back in with new costumes. Fire and smoke. Loved the 3 nuns in the audience dancing at the front. After watching them, I went and bought Vegan Sushi and ate it in the rain.
Skindred
British band. The only song I knew was at the end of their set when we all jumped and whirled our coats around. Their set was packed. Rained throughout their set, pity the ground was drying out.
Trivium
Stopped raining and sun about to come out. US band from Atlanta, but they call Donnington home. All these bands do.
Die Antwoord
Hate this type of music, so instead I went around for a walk of the site. Found the real ale bar and had a Charles Welles pint. Then I went up on to the Pepsi Max platform to look over the sit. Then back to the campsite area for a sit down and another beer. Walked back for Slipknot
Slipknot
Started a little late. First band to start late. Traditional apparently. Anyway they were headlining, so not constrained for time. I quite like Slipknot.
Sunday and Tool
Started off a little sunny, but a tad cold. Thought I might wear a little more, but luckily didn’t. Not so cold when I got to the arena. Bought some sun tan cream on the way, was a bit burnt on my face yesterday, especially my nose. Guarantee it will be totally cloudy today.
Cane Hill
The band seemed to have problems setting up at the start. It was also the first time I have seen band members actually doing some of the work themselves. They ordered circles in the audience to be created. Not quite seen a circle quite like this one before. Some old people (“old people” being anyone older than me) should be banned from participating in these. Everyone lolloped around the circle. Oh, when the circle was created I realised I was in an empty space. I panicked and ran for it.
Not a bad gig, so I celebrated with a Falafel for lunch. Must practice the pronunciation of this word. I have sorted out Huawei!
I Prevail
From Michigan, younger singer, with a broken foot, also seemed to fall off the stage at one point. Started to rain at the end. Headed for RIP bar to escape the rain. Now the sun is out while waiting for Underoath
Underoath
From Tampa. Rain again.
Godsmack
Sully Erna the lead singer founded the Scars foundation to help raise awareness of the mental health issues that so many are faced with today. Sully had faced an overwhelming number of fellow artists and friends who had committed suicide over the past few years.
The band is unforgettable, something different. Loved the two drum kits which came on for a short period, enjoyed this band. No rain!!
Amon Amarth
Lots of vikings, horns, fighting and fire. Swedish band who are named after the volcano in the Lord of the Rings. (And yes, I do know; real Vikings did not have horns on their helmets.)
No rain
Lamb of God
Richmond, Virginia. Great circles and crowd surfing. Left area for a break, so lost my position on the side rail. Still managed to get quite near it.
The Smashing Pumpkins
Had a strange set with three inflatable dolls.
Tool
Tool were a revelation, never played their music in the past. It is now something I will listen to constantly. The images on the set were bizarre, but fun. There were no projections of the band, so if you were far back you would never have seen them.
Picked up some chips on the way home to Morrison.
Monday morning I was away at around 7.30, no issues driving out. On arriving home, R screamed at the state of my nose (not to mention my clothes).
Rosemary and I, with Julie and Ian, visited London to see a matinee performance of the play “Pictures of Dorian Gray”. This was a new production and starred a local actor, Stanton Wright, who was playing Dorian Gray. The cast swap roles around, so in the evening show, Stanton would be playing someone else, hence the title “Pictures of Dorian Gray”. The play was being shown in the Jermyn Street Theatre, a very small theatre with about 70 seats.
We arrived in London, and took a walk up Regent Street, thinking this looks like a larger version of Bicester Village, but with buses and cars. We stopped in Hamleys and spent an hour looking and playing with the toys. Back towards the theatre we stopped for lunch at Prezzo and then when into the theatre. We were re-seated from our allocated seats to a better set of seats.
Then it was time for the show to start. I quite enjoyed the play, I have not read any Oscar Wilde, but Rosemary had given me a hint as to story before we went.
I have become addicted to the YouTube channel Fully Charged with hosts Robert Llewellyn and Jonny Smith. They talk and review electric cars and discuss renewable energy. Yes, there are lots of reviews of cars, because so many manufacturers are now launching them. Robert desires to talk more about renewables for the home. One interesting recent review was about a Norwegian car and truck ferry which is now powered by electricity. When it enters port it plugs in and takes on electricity. Normally charging for 7-9 minutes.
So today we went to Silverstone to see the show. Lots of cars on show, as well as solar panels, batteries and wind generators to power your home. There were talks, which I didn’t go to, but probably should have done. Well, we did see the opening talk by the Fully Charged team, and then an interview with a design person from the company Rivian, which is launching a super pickup truck which is on my want list.
The day was very wet, so the outside stands had to be visited in the dry spells. I did get into a BMW i8 which was a lovely car. Managed to find the correct buttons to get out, and haul my self out with the aid of a handle on the gullwing doors. R said I could not have one. I also tried the electric scooters. Really fun to whizz along, but not practical where we live with the huge Buckinghamshire potholes.
We left the show, and rode back to the carpark in a Tesla S. The Tesla Owners Club had provided 150 cars with their drivers to ferry visitors between the carpark and the show. Not an inconsiderable distance. Money was thrown into a charity bucket.
We took an extravagant trip from Milton Keynes to Holyhead and back again. We had to be waiting on platform 3 at Milton Keynes at 7.20. We dutifully arrived early, leaving us time for a coffee in the Costa, while train-spotter spotting. Yes, you could spot them a mile off.
Waved our piece of paper at the barrier, and were sent on to platform 3, which became quite crowded. The heritage diesel engine, a class 47, arrived promptly on-time. We boarded and sat in our Pulman carriage. Champagne to welcome us. Rather decadent at that time in the morning. Then came muesli with yoghurt & fruit, a small Danish pastry washed down with coffee & orange juice. Full English breakfast was then served, so we merrily made our way to Crewe chomping our way through sausages and bacon.
We stopped at Rugby and Lichfield Trent, picking up more passengers. At Crewe, we had a 40-minute wait while the diesel engine was replaced by our steam locomotive – 45690 Leander. The switch was relatively quick, it was a question of waiting for space on the line for the engines to swap over.
Off we went again, stopping at Chester, and then a longish stop at Llandudno Junction where the engine was filled with water from a fire brigade bowser. At this station, a number of people departed to look at a National Trust property & gardens. They would be picked up on the way back. We stayed on the train for the final destination of Holyhead. We crossed the Menai Straights and passed through Llanfairpwllgwyngyllgogerychwyrndrobwllllantysiliogogogoch station. I missed getting a picture of the sign as we passed through on the outward journey. Succeeded on the way back. R noticed how some cows and sheep and even horses, started running at the sound of a steam train. She also told me the wildflowers were lovely, unlike the caravan parks. Some fabulous coastal scenery. R v pleased to see Rhosneigr, where she had gone on holiday many years ago with her aunt, uncle & cousins.
At Holyhead, we stopped for about 2 and a 1/2 hours. Time for a walk around, a visit to the shops and a quest to find a pub for some drinks. The town seemed a bit run down, but plenty of charity shops so R came away with quite a few purchases, books, glasses & a smart top. The pub, the best thing going I thought, was remarkably cheap. The most spectacular piece of engineering we saw in the town was the footbridge from the port to the town. Built apparently to entice travellers into the town centre. Should have a portcullis to trap visitors in the town.
We re-boarded the train. The engine was now at the other end, pointing in the correct direction. The train had been several miles down the track to a place where the engine could turn around, at a siding said to have been used during the transport of nuclear waste. We set off back to Milton Keynes. Managed to snap Llanfairpwllgwyngyllgogerychwyrndrobwllllantysiliogogogoch as we passed through. Stopped at Llandudno Junction again for more water. We now ate our way back to Milton Keynes, starting with canapes & finishing with cheese and biscuits. changing engines again at Crewe.
Took a picture of one of the passengers, he was wearing an American T-shirt with the word “ferroequinologist” and its definition. Ferroequinologist = train spotter.
I went to see Muse play at the Olympic Park. Fabulous show. Decided to drive to Stanmore and catch the tube to Stratford. The benefit was I would not have to hurry home, the Jubilee line runs all night on Fridays and Saturdays. Despite the large car park, parking was an issue, had to wait for a car to leave before I parked. Arrived at the stadium after the gates opened. Had a pint of expensive lager, £6.50
Two support bans played, Pale Wavesplayed for 30 minutes and then Tom Morello.
Pale Waves are an English indie pop band from Manchester, formed in 2014. It was founded originally as Creek when lead singer and guitarist Heather Baron-Gracie met drummer Ciara Doran while attending university in Manchester. They played a nice set to a fairly empty stadium.
Tom Morello, best known for his tenure with the band Rage Against the Machine and then with Audioslave. As of 2019, Morello is a member of the supergroup Prophets of Rage. He started playing in the pit, and then rushed around the back and came on with his band. Lots of applause for him as the venue filled up. Lots of slogans, the best was on the back of his guitar, which said ‘Fuck Farage’ This drew rapturous applause from the audience.
Muse came on at 8.30 playing until 10.45. Tremendous set. You know, sometimes you wonder how long much longer has a band to play, well with Muse I looked at my phone and suddenly realised they had been playing 2 hours. Fantastic set.
Afterwards, I hung around and was amazed to see the stage and the arena being dismantled immediately. Grabbed some food and made my way back.
In future I will hang on a bit longer as I still got caught in a queue of people making their way to Stratford.
Dried up now, so was able to pack away the awning in the dry. Our VW van neighbours also packed up and left. The mother and son opposite with the Tesla X car were staying on for several days. We had a brief tour of her car which she was very proud of. She relayed the issues at the Tunnel exit in England where there are several Tesla chargers, but you can charge only when going from England to France, and not the other way around. She had to be escorted especially through the barriers to be allowed to charge.
We arrived in Sainte Nazaire and stayed at the Eve camping site. Cheapest campsite yet at 16 Euro including electricity. Not quite what I expected. It seemed busy, even for a weekend, but there were so many chalets and little camping. Camping was all mainly on a slope. Because of the slope, we set up the awning, now nicknamed ‘the shed’, on its own, .
We did a quick walk down to the beach, to which the campsite had its own access tunnel under the road.
In the campsite cafe/bar, there was a stage. During the evening there was an entertainer followed by a disco which went on to 10.30, After that, I could hear quieter music, including great English classics from Pink Floyd, must have been a couple of bikers camping a few pitches up.
Sunday May 19th Saint Nazaire
The reason for coming to Saint Nazaire was to see the old German submarine basin. We drove in and parked. Seemed very easy to do, lots of free parking everywhere. A huge Tintin painting greeted us. We later spotted another. Seems Tintin et al boarded a liner here in “The Seven Crystal Balls”, a book I do not own, but will be remedying the defect very soon. In fact, there was even, at certain times of the year, a Tintin walking tour.
The submarine block has been converted into offices and entertainment areas. There was a boxing ring and match going on in one area. We bought a ticket which included four exhibitions.
Escal’Atlantic
An exhibition of the cross Atlantic liners from the 1880s to the 1960s, which St Nazaire had once built. You walked up & along a gangplank, then into the “liner”, walking from room to room looking at the cabins, the view from the stern, the staterooms, the lower deck cabins, kitchens, engine room, the deck and bar. Very cleverly designed & built. We were caught by the French lunch and were told we had only another 20 minutes left and had to hurry through the last part of the exhibition. If you are there, it is well worth visiting. As you exit there is a bar where cocktails are on sale, alas missed these as we were herded through a theatre to watch a film, and then into lifeboats to be lowered to the ground level where we exited through the gift shop.
Submarine Espadon
We then walked over to the fortified lock where the other exhibitions were. Here we went onto the roof with good views of the shipbuilding, several cruise liners in the process of being fitted out. Also saw one of those artistic paint jobs where you stand in one place for all the paint lines to join up in one grand design. Probably as not as impressive as last year’s at Carcassonne, but still very neat. This artistic design is permanent.
Watched a fishing boat go through a lock, and the bridge swing open. A man was standing on the bridge photographing the fishing boat, totally oblivious to the bells ringing. He was told by someone on the bank to get off. He moved off just as the harbour master came out of his control cabin to shout at him.
Now it was 2pm, ie after lunch, so we made our way to see the submarine. It was a French submarine, built after the war based on the German U boat design. It was preserved for viewing as it was the first French submarine to break through the ice of the North Pole. Well, work viewing, seeing the cramped space. Interesting to see the periscopes were viewed from the conning tower, where you could hardly stand more than a couple of people. Not at all like in the films.
EOL Centre Eolien
An exhibition about offshore wind farms. Started off with the history of electricity and its usage in France, then onto the building of the wind farms of Saint Nazaire. Sixty 8 Megawatt turbines. Ah well in the UK we are well ahead of this with many sites with far more turbines and even larger ones coming online. What the French do well is produce these little exhibitions and tell everyone how well they are doing. Rosemary impressed by one part of the exhibit where you could listen to various professionals involved in the build. All in French, but the impressive aspect was the number of females.
Ecomusee de Sainte Nazaire
The final museum was the history of the area. Some prehistoric, but soon went into the industrial age, and shipbuilding. Unfortunately all in French. Also a lot about the aircraft they built before and after the war which was mainly seaplanes. Of course, Saint Nazaire builds the fuselage for Airbus.
The disappointment for me was that was not to be here on a Wednesday where there are tours of the Airbus factory and cruise line shipbuilding. Will put these on a to-do list when we are next passing through France.
Back to Morrison, and to the campsite. On the way, we stopped at a Dolmen in the city, Dolmen des Trois Pierres. At the campsite, we had time to cook and eat a nice late evening stew.
Monday May 20th Meeting Monsieur Hulot
Lazy day today. We had thought of going to see some archaeological sites, but these are closed until July. Thankfully some kind soul had written a review on google and photographed the entry sign. Looking at their website you would have gone and been disappointed.
So instead we were having a lazy day. The campsite is deserted, we tried for a mid-morning coffee, but the bar was closed (despite the people standing inside drinking coffee). So to google maps, where I spotted a nice place nearby in the village of Page de Saint-Marc. Coffee and beers at the Bar Le Phil’Good and then photographs of Monsieur Hulot. Walked on the Plage de Monsieur Hulot. Then it was back to our beach which was being resculptured with two diggers. Ready for the season. Then we discovered the beach was actually closed. We had come in a back way.
Lunch in the van, reading and writing blogs. R had spotted several white cats with a variety of different coloured tales – tabby, black, whatever. A beagle was roaming free and seemingly not owned by people on the site. A scurry in the bushes caused R to wonder if the dog had found a cat. But no, a beautiful tabby emerged. His head was at an odd angle, a result of the goldfinch in his mouth. Not a busy day.
Tuesday May 21st Le Bec Hellouin
Packed up. The Shed was not entirely dry as there was fog this morning. You could hear fog horns out to see in the Loire Estuary. We packed up and left. First stop was a mound, Tumulus Dissignac, a few miles away. Yes, it was closed as the Google Local Guides had indicated. Photo from the outside, and then on to ‘La Roche aux Fées’ Oh oh, inundated with French school children who at least were lingering over lunch and playing in a field. So we were able to walk around unobstructed.
Back on the road, stopping at a Super U to buy some Jack Daniels and Ricard, and then on to Le Bec Hellouin where we arrived at 6.00. Moules for supper. The campsite was pretty full.
Wednesday May 22nd Home
Final drive to the tunnel, where we arrived several hours before our departure time. We were offered and accepted a crossing an hour earlier than our booked one. The trip home was “relatively” painless, the usual slow down to cross the Thames, and unfortunately arrived at Aylesbury for 6, so a long queue getting into town.
It was a pity to leave, a lovely campsite, but we decided to head on off.
Packed away a dry canopy and off we were to Carnac. First stop was the stones, here we took a 40-minute tour ride, passing the stones and then a circuit around the coast pointing out the historic and a few more prehistoric sites. Picnic lunch at the site, and then a walk around the nearby stones. You don’t have access to the stones, you have to look at them from behind a fence, a bit like Stonehenge. But so many, many standing stones!
Stopped at the SuperU for some beer, wine and food, and then onto our campsite. Nice pitches, but all a bit busier than we have encountered. The first time we have had to pay an extra Euro for 10 Amp, above the all-inclusive ACSI rate. Also had to use the ‘French adapter’. Didn’t know they still used them over here. Also, Madam had to come and connect you. Ho hum.
Steak for supper, much better than the restaurant steak. I do cook a mean steak, or so I am told.
Took a walk down to the beach for the sunset, alas it was over, and too far around over the land. Nice beach, sand and rocks. Must investigate the restaurant and bar later.
Hopefully tomorrow we will walk around to the harbour where there are over 1000 yachts. Biggest marina in France.
Wednesday, May 15th 2019 La Trinite-sur-Mer
Sunny day, better than forecast. Some wonderful Mare’s tails (Alto Cirrus Clouds) in the sky. Beautiful, but a precursor to cloudy days.
Morning walk along the beach and around the headland to the other beach and back to the campsite. Passed by one thatched house, very close to the sea. Very cute, but thatched near the sea? The beach, as I already mentioned is quite pretty, a mixture of sand and rocks. Lots of natural oysters were embedded into the rocks. Inviting bar and café overlooking the beach, the menu contains Moules, so hopefully will be some tomorrow for a meal.
Lunch back at the campsite, English cheddar cheese and a bottle of Adnams. Very French!
I went for a walk to the yacht basin. Apparently the biggest in France. Some huge trimarans. On the quay were notice boards giving information about each of the boats and their skippers.
Back at the campsite, tea and then the duck breast (aka Magret de Canard) and “chips”. Had a starter of stuffed vine leaves, wanted somewhere to put the excess duck fat to freeze, so the vine leaves tin came in handy. Of course, some of the duck fat was used to fry the parboiled potatoes while the duck was resting.
One lot of rather noisy campers.
Thursday, May 16th 2019 Camping
Woke up to a cloudy day. Despite the no-rain predictions of the day before, today predicted some precipitation. This caused R to take rucksack and waterproofs. S pooh-poohed this and was proved correct, no rain. Morning meander along the beach towards Carnac, then inland to see the nature reserve and the renovated salt pans. Who would consider eating that black looking salt when you can buy pure salt easy flowing salt for a hundredth of the price? Especially when you see the sea birds nesting in the nearby lakes. Maybe the salt tastes fishy?
Back at the campsite, the noisy Belgians were packing up. Hopefully a quieter evening. How can people have so much to say at such a loud volume?
We got to see the inside of our new neighbours’ campervan. A German couple with a VW. Same popup roof as ours. They bought it from a company near Stuttgart which buys VW vans and sends them to Poland to be converted. Nice to see some real wood in their van. They had incorporated a hand shower at the back and an emergency loo. The lady had made an external shower curtain which hung off the tailgate when in use. Could not understand why anyone would want a cold shower when there are hot ones available, but who knows. Their van seemed to have more room for packing in stuff. They slept upstairs, though they could also do so downstairs. I think the answer to storage is many European conversions is to raise the height of the bed, to increase storage underneath. This does mean sleeping downstairs when the roof is down, could be claustrophobic.
Watched a small lizard whizz around at high speed where he intercepted another lizard on a similar outing, a quick tussle and they went their own ways. No idea if it was a fight or l’amour.
Lunch of bread, cheddar and Cornichons, then a walk around the lake and some birding.
The local birds at the campsite are very friendly, hop around your pitch and come very close. A female blackbird keeps offering me a beak full of worms, she even establishes eye contact and cocks her head. I have declined. A jay came down to take R’s apple core and I could have easily touched it. R thinks the goldfinches etc look thinner (sleeker?) than ours. Perhaps these migrate?
Supper was pasta with a sauce of tuna, onions, pepper and pesto.
A new Dutch camping neighbour arrived this afternoon, driving a Tesla X. I think she runs a business because she was always on the phone in several languages. Anyway, I have been invited to look around her car.
Friday, May 17th 2019 Lunch out
A quiet day, slow start and then went for lunch at the local beach restaurant. Quite a nice meal. I started with six Oysters, and then a plate of Sardines and potatoes. To finish a crepe called ‘The Beach’ I suppose it was meant to look like a beach, Chantilly cream, nuts, ice cream and a gooey sweet mix. Lovely. Rosemary had a sweet and sour salad, followed by cod stuffed with bacon and leeks, with a cream sauce. Her dessert was a chocolate mousse served in a full-size Bonne Maman jar! Rather more than she expected. The meal was swilled down with beers. We now have a loyalty card, so have to go there next season!
Afterwards, we went bird watching on the salt making areas. This time we watched the mating ritual of some Common Terns. Didn’t understand the fish offering, nobody came for it for ages, and when they did, off went the receiver of the gift, leaving the giver on his own. All very strange.
Back at the van, the rain came in as a light drizzle.
Friday, May 12th 2019 Camping l’Orangerie de Lanniron
Another sunny day, we packed up the tent and moved on to Quimper. Selected an called Castel camping l’Orangerie de Lanniron near to the centre of Quimper. It is set in the grounds of chateaux, (not up to Rosemary’s exacting standards, cos no turrets) overlooking the river Odet, which at low tide is a mud flat. Good grounds, with, I am told, rhododendrons, azaleas & camellias.
Large campsite with gites and a huge camping area. There is also a 9-hole golf course and a couple of restaurants, épiceries and a swimming pool. Alas, out of season most of this was closed, though the bar and restaurant near the entry are open, probably because of the golf course. A couple of weddings were underway in the grounds when we arrived. Expected lots of loud disco music into the late evening, but no, it was all packed up and gone by late afternoon.
The grounds are gorgeous, trees, flowers, birds and open spaces. R says not as claustrophobic as the previous campsite. There should be a 2K walk into the centre of the city which misses the main road in. We shall see tomorrow. Reckon we have struck lucky here, lots of bird song, and relatively quiet despite being near to the main roads. There was so much blossom and flowers. Very tranquil.
The afternoon was warm, T-shirt weather. Cooked alfresco and ate outside. Still writing this outside at 9.30 as the sun is setting and still not cold. Makes a change from a few days ago. Will it be cold tonight? Last night was, could have done with the thicker duvet.
Saturday, 13th 2019 Camping l’Orangerie de Lanniron
Hurrah, another Sunny day, walked into Quimper. The gate to the footpath was closed, so had to walk quite a long distance to the campsite exit, and then double back along the outside fence. Yes, this was quite an extra walk as this campsite is very large. The footpath then headed down a leafy lane towards the city, under a road and then alongside some city gardens. There was also a field with named Breton rare breed cattle.
First stop was the bar for a drink of beer. Downmarket bar, part of a Tabac. R, after she went to the loo, decided women weren’t encouraged to drink here. Then on to the tourist bit, cathedrals shops and lunch. The disappointment of the day was lunch, ordered a steak rare and it came out tough and overcooked. Long walk back to the campsite. Did my heart paces, steps and move minutes today. Supper was purchased on the way back at a small supermarket. R had not written a shopping list, so much was forgotten.
At the campsite, we did a final walk around, found the ‘canal’, which did have a load of midgies, and some toads making the most goddamn awful racket. Could not think what it was to start with. A nice place.
